Jose Luis treated me to First Coffee at the albergue and then we said goodbye and I headed out at dawn feeling like a new person. Amazing how carrying just the basic essentials help takes the weight off of one’s back and feet. (?!)
On the way out of Najara I realized that last time I’d headed out I’d left town in the dark, before dawn. I had no idea how close I’d been to the caves of Najara. They’re right next to the path! Years ago this was where many of the townspeople lived.
The walk out of town was gorgeous. I mean, how could one not take a photo?!
Just over 6k out was the first open coffee shop. I remembered it from last time as well. I had a croissant and coffee. An older couple was running the place. The counter was covered with layers of cups and saucers dropped off at random. And the guy was trying to rinse dishes before loading them into the dish washer – while also making an ongoing stream of coffee orders. I tackled the pile on the counter and put like things together to give them a head start on the next step. Best to leave things better than you find them. Then headed out into more wheat fields and vineyards. Miles and miles of them. I noticed that there are no houses in this area. We saw plenty of pickup trucks and tractors – farmers must live closer to town and go out into the fields as needed.
I’d remembered there are a lack of services in this area and packed extra water and food. The second town is many miles away. I remembered as I was walking that it’s ’the soulless place’. A golf course developer put penitentiary-style condo blocks in the area surrounding the course. They could have gone with any style and they opted for ugly.
I stopped at the golf course cafe for a small lunch and met Julia and Eric, from Oregon. We got chatting and ended up walking all the way to Santo Domingo together, sharing stories – as one does on the Camino. Really lovely couple. This photo was taken at first sight of Santo Domingo – but we were actually several miles off still.
As we arrived into the outskirts of town they went off looking for accommodations and I stopped in to the Plaza Oriental shop. Shops like this are all across Spain. It’s a bit like the Dollar Tree back home – but on steroids. When you walk in, the off-gassing from plastic is enough to make one’s eyes water. The place is packed, floor to ceiling, and the rows are very narrow. Every sort of household item, small hardware tool, decorating gizmo, craft item, etc. all jam-packed into one space. I’d been looking for a bag to replace one I have where the zipper broke – but to no avail. It might have been there but I had no idea how to find it in whatever system they were using.
I had a reservation at Hostal La Catedral. I was amazed to find out it’s my own room with an attached bathroom all my own. Just need to look the other way on the 1980s ‘chic’ decor.
Stepping out into the plaza for some sun (ironically…been out in it most of the day) and will eventually look for something for dinner.
More later…
I’m walking to help charity:water. You’re welcome to join me!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026
