Day 9: Logrono to Najera

Set out of Logrono, enjoying a walk through several parks along the way out of town. Happened across a man feeding his friends – the local red squirrels. 

And passed by a reservoir where fisherman lined up in lawn chairs along the edge, hoping for a catch – but not particularly bothered about anything as they waited. That park was also the home to some of the healthiest pigeons I’ve ever seen in my life. 

Popped into a coffee shop and was pleasantly surprised to see Elga & Guy again. They made up some time along the way and I think we’re back on the same stages. 

It’s vineyard and wheat country. As far as the eye can see – mostly fields. Very little shade. A few olive trees but those are in fields, not along the road. 

Stopped after a couple miles in the town of Naverette for early lunch.

My friend Stuart arrived about the same time and we chatted in the plaza over our break. I headed out first as I walk slower and don’t want anyone feeling obligated to go at my pace. On the way out I finally saw a stork on guard duty on a giant nest. 

It would reach down every now and then to tend their young. Their mate was off getting food. They are very democratic and take turns between guarding and hunting. Lovely to see them again!

After Naverette – more vineyards. No shade. The path hug the road for a good while and at one point there was an option to take a detour through Ventrosa. I did so.

I remembered it as I approached and went to the same little cafe as last time as it had a lovely garden and a couple friendly dogs. Temps were rising. I got an icy berry smoothie and enjoyed the shade. I sent a note ahead to the hostel that I was going slower than anticipated and hope to be there by 5. There was one last push up a hill and the 10 km of decent to Najera.

By the time I arrived, my feet were spent.  This was the second really long day (about 30 km / 18.5 miles) in a row with a heavy pack. I noticed upon checkin that there was a foot massage option. I asked if that was available and was told yes. My host, Jose Luis, showed me to my bed. I was relieved to see it was a single twin without a bunk. Perfect. I was in no condition to climb a ladder!

I got cleaned up, took advantage of their €6 laundry service, and joined the group dinner. Jose Luis’s wife, Jenni, is the chef. Dinner was a delicious/filling three course fare. Also, because I was feeling so beat up – I checked my pack ahead for the next day. 

Jose Luis was trained as a veterinarian before becoming a hospitalario. He got additional training in foot care and offers foot repair (for folks with blisters / minor injuries) and also massages. He had me soak my feet in ice water with Epsom salt prior to the massage to help with general swelling / pain. Then he started to work on my feet.

His massage / treatment table is set up literally in the middle of the dorm. After a few minute he went to get an Italian pilgrim who was a doctor – and someone else who had medical training. He was concerned about my swollen ankles. I’d had my eyes closed and when I opened them, eight people were standing around the table. Three with medical training, a young pilgrim lady who knew Spanish, Italian, and English, and could translate – and a few other folks to see what the commotion was. Americas are very into medical privacy. This was not a situation where I was going to get any. The doctor examined my feet, ankles, and calves and determined they were swollen due to too much walking with a heavy pack. 👍 He recommended rest – but, failing that, shorter stages, or at least checking my pack ahead. When I took the luggage transfer tag out of my pocket the folks around me were in agreement, medical background or not. 😄 They dispersed and Jose Luis continued to work on my sore feet.

My feet and ankles were noticeably better when he finished. The service is by ‘donativo’. ..a cash donation based on whatever you can afford. I gave him all the cash I had on me at that moment – about €35. It was considerably less than the service would have cost in the states but he was very appreciative to get it. I know some people he serves might not have anything to offer. 

I headed up to my bed and slept soundly.

More later…

I’m walking to raise awareness about charity:water and to help raise funds for water projects. You’re welcome to join me!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026