This has to be one of the most beautiful stages on the Camino. The walk along the river in the cool of the morning just after dawn was spectacular. This section boasts numerous small waterfalls. I lost track of the number of vintage stone-crafted mills. Millstones were still nearby many of them. I could just picture the working mills centuries ago – local residents had all the water power energy they needed to be productive.
The area was shaded in the cool of the forest.
We saw several other pilgrims enjoying the beautiful views. And when we popped out of the forest I was drawn to a neon light at a cafe like a moth to a flame. The couple who run it have an excellent business model. They bake sweet and savory treats in the evening, open the cafe at dawn for pilgrims and local walkers, then when the food is gone – they close up shop and go home. So, official hours are 0-dark hundred until clean counter.
When the forest dispersed the water was still flowing next to the path and we followed the banks of the stream and river most of the day.
We came across a couple photographing a stone cross. Little did I know – this is the Portuguese Camino’s equivalent of Cruz de Ferro. Pilgrims bring items to leave here that are symbolic of a burden one wants to discard. Had I known, I would have carried something political.
After a coffee break, we got advice on landmarks from a local guide who was shepherding a small group of pilgrims along. We were told to look for the stone donkey – and our end point was just a few km beyond that.
We knew there was a bridge to cross and I was a bit disheartened to come around the corner and see this monstrosity – several km long and shared with cars.
We stopped for ice cream (a cure-all) just before the bridge and double-checked directions. Imagine our relief when we saw our pedestrian-only bridge further down the coast.
The boat company we’ll use tomorrow is near that bridge. We were referred to an excellent seafood restaurant – but as it didn’t open for dinner until 8:30, decided to opt for a cafe just around the corner instead. Hoping for an early night.
The Crud caught up with me. It’s not Covid – checked that. Nothing to do but wait it out and be sensible. Susie has been wrestling with it for about 8 days.
Grateful to be here. Grateful to be able to walk. Grateful for my friends and family. Grateful for water.
More later…
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https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2025
Second bridge. Good choice. Hope you feel better overnight.