This was ‘the boat day’. We’ve looked forward to this day all trip. Its significance has to do with the original course used to transport the discipline James’ body back to Spain for burial. It makes sense that he was shipped by boat and not subjected to an arduous transit by land which, back in the day, would have been almost impossible.
For us, it also meant a beautiful variation from our normal walk schedule. From the dock about 4 minutes from last night’s albergue we met other pilgrims ready for this trip. Some we’d met previously and they felt like old friends. Some new faces. The boats showed up right on time. After the captain’s roll call – we were divided into the two boats. Susie was in the front boat and I in the latter.
We first visited the rafts used for harvesting mussels. All the rafts are specially permitted and some have been in the same families for generations.
We then did a tour of the many crosses erected along the shoreline. Each statue depicts Jesus, Mary, and St. James. They were set up for early pilgrims to be able to pray next to along the sea route. I especially liked the one which included the crosses of the two robbers who were crucified with Jesus. A reminder that we have a choice as to how we respond to who Jesus is.
We also passed by a Viking ruin and small replicas of Viking ships. A monument to just one of the invader forces to the region.
We couldn’t have asked for better weather. After a beautiful sunrise, an eerie mist rolled in on cue.
When we’d finally reached the dock in Pontecesures were all a bit chilled and looking for hot coffee. The town was setting up a gigantic market – fruit, fish, bread, cheese, sausages, clothes of all descriptions, leather goods, oils, houseware supplies. It was massive.
We’re not sure how often this market is set up – it seemed like a lot of work to be weekly. We also stopped into a cafe while there. The place we stopped into for lunch had the most hilarious addition – something I’ve never seen on the Camino. A pay-turnstile to use the loo. I’ve seen notices that services are only for customers – but they wanted to charge everyone, including customers, to use the loo.
After visiting a couple churches, the walk out into the countryside was pleasant. It was an intentionally short day today for us. We did half of the last stage. That means… tomorrow is Santiago! A long road almost completed.
We had a leisurely late afternoon on the terrace at the albergue (which we found out was built in 1710 and is owned by one of the wealthier families in the county). We met some pilgrims from London who gave us transit tips from Stansted airport. The Camino does provide after all! 🙂
More later…
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Beautiful pictures and a great day. So different from a day of walking. The market looked amazing. Bon Camino to Santiago tomorrow