Day 11: Combarro to Armenteira

We knew today would be mostly uphill. However, we were treated to a lovely sunrise by the coast before starting our ascent. 

Today, more than any day prior on this trip, felt like when I was walking on the Camino Frances. Steep climbs, eucalyptus groves, purple heather, and miles of dusty trail with nobody in site for ages.  

We also saw something that I’d seen day one in the Pyrenees – horses with bells left to roam and graze where they wanted to. No idea who owns them. 

So glad we opted for this Variante Espiritual!  I had no electronic trail map to follow so I kept an eye out for arrows and markers – and it all ended right where it was supposed to. 

Beautiful Armentaria. 

Susie had found us two beds in bunks online at the gorgeous new Caroi Hostel and then followed up with an email to let them know we’re women of a certain age and would appreciate bottom bunks. Remarkably, she’d got a response and our bottom beds were reserved. 

We were early to town so I met Susie in the cafe for a light late breakfast.  Then went next door to the noon Mass at the monastery. 

At 1:00 check-in we made the acquaintance of Lourdes (a French name, but in Spanish every letter is pronounced), our lovely hostess. Once registered, showered, laundry done (free machines!), and clothes on the line – we headed back to the restaurant she’d recommended for a proper lunch. We both had Galician-style cod, which came with potatoes. 

It will need to keep us fed until morning as everything will be closed for siesta and not reopen today because of the feast day. 

Tonight we’re looking forward to vespers and a pilgrim’s blessing at the monastery. 

More later…

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