Estrella to Los Archos

Day 6

After saying goodbye to Fran, my roommate from NZ, I headed out in the wonderfully cool morning at about 7:30. On the walk out of town I stopped at the famous wine & water font at the Irache monastery. It’s free to pilgrims. I refilled my water and headed out.

At one point, there was a split in the path and I had to decide between 16+ km or 17+ km. I chose the longer path because the sign said there was a spot for coffee within 4 km. Definitely the right choice.

In Azqueta I stopped at one of the best pilgrim cafes I’ve seen thus far. Plenty of places to drop a pack out of view of the road; plenty of outdoor seating both in the sun and shade; everything was clean; the coffee and food options were top shelf; the host was friendly; and there were even pleasant diffusers in the restrooms. Who does that on the Camino?! They’re also associated with helping children in Nepal. 💕

When I left, the host was dialing up the Olympics for the pilgrims on a big screen, placed just inside an outbuilding but within view of the patio.

I refilled my water bottle in the local fountain but waited my turn while local workers filled buckets of water to wash the benches and play equipment. The place was immaculate.

The focal point of most of the morning’s hike was a medieval fortress on the top of a prominent mountain just off the trail in the distance. It was far larger, further off, and formidable than it may appear in these photos. Quite impressive.

I reached Villamayor de Monjardin as the church bell struck 10:30. I didn’t need to stop for anything but knew that in front of me was a 12.4 km stretch with no shelter or additional stops. It was mostly a pleasant downhill path.

About 5 km from that point the dark clouds rolled in over the valley ahead. And as lightning increased, I figured it was only a matter of time until I was in the middle of it. The only thing the few pilgrims who were on the trail and I could do – was let it rain.

And I was grateful…

Grateful it was cool raindrops, not blistering sun.

Grateful my one clean outfit was safely wrapped in a dry-bag.

Grateful I’m washable.

Grateful, on the farmer’s behalf, that the hay had already been harvested.

Grateful that the local water tables would be raised.

Grateful I could look forward to a hot shower and a cup of tea at the end of the hike.

Grateful my childhood ‘Pioneer Girl’ training taught me how to estimate the distance the lightning strikes were from me.

Grateful it appeared to be moving away.

And when it was really close later on, grateful that the real God of Thunder is also the God of Peace.

I thought as I walked a bit about Jesus and the disciples in the storm on the Sea of Galilee. And for the first time in my life I actually wondered if maybe Jesus might have let the storm roll as long as he did to give his band of stinky pilgrim-disciples a much needed shower?!

And, I also thought about and prayed for the women and children who were, at that very moment, walking in storms elsewhere in the world to collect water. Sometimes the rain comes as a blessing to end a drought. But sometimes too much rain makes the situation of sanitation even worse.

I’d read in a book about the Camino that the Spanish will never offer pilgrims a lift. I’m saying this to state that that’s not true. But when a young worker pulled over and offered me a ride – I was only 2 km from my destination and I thanked him but declined. Not so much because it wasn’t the ‘spirit of the Camino’ – but for practical reasons. When every stitch of clothing is thoroughly drenched – there’s a point where one really can’t get any wetter. And the only thing my accepting the generous offer would have done would have been to ruin the upholstery in the guy’s car. So, no.

I arrived at Los Archos just as the rain subsided. After walking for that long in cold rain my fingertips had ‘turned to raisins’, as we kids used to say. My amazing Macabi skirt dried almost instantly. My squishy shoes… not so much.

I headed straight to Casa de la Abuela. It’s where I’d stayed last time I was here and where I’d met my friend Joanna. A bunk was open, pilgrim’s dinner was offered for a little more, and full laundry service was also available. I took the lady of the house up on all the options.

Hot shower, cup of tea, fresh outfit, warm fleece, and a siesta in my merino wool liner. All good.

More later….

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water