Puente La Reina to Estella

Day 5

Today was full of surprises. I was first to the 5:30 am breakfast and the note the hostess left indicated that I was in charge.

The set-up
Instructions

I was looking forward to the hardboiled egg – a favorite protein while hiking. Much to my surprise- the last heat it had seen was the hen who had laid it. 🐓

😳

They were all like that. I put mine in the microwave as that was the only option for cooking it – no hot plates, no pans – and we left a note of warning to the fourth pilgrim. The positive thing is – I was actually debating initially if I should just throw it in my pack for a snack later. That would have been a horrible surprise out in the heat on the trail.

A nice surprise was the town of Cirauqui. I’d forgot it was on this stage. It’s one of my favorite, beautifully-preserved little medieval towns on the trail. Unspoiled by time.

Approaching Cirauqui
Vintage metal Juliet balcony

All along the way I stopped several times for coffee, snacks, and lots of water.

One of the better coffees

May I be candid about something? If you’re squeamish, please skip to the next paragraph. I heard growing up that ‘Horses sweat, men perspire, and women glow.’ I’d like to add to that, my friend – pilgrims stink. To high heaven. I’m no doctor – but this is my guess. By about day four there’s no mistaking it. 6+ hours a day hiking in the heat – one tends to loose water through every pore. And by day four the level of water loss has become an unmistakable sickening, acidic funk as the water is taking with it every toxic chemical one has consumed in goodness knows how long. Coffee. Fried food. Pork. Medications. And, if one imbibes, alcohol… to name a few. The best short term remedy is to take bathing seriously, sleep with the windows open so the breeze can take it away, and drink more fresh, clean water than you think you need. Have it within constant reach. If you’re an actual Dr or have medical training, please elaborate on what the heck is actually going on.

Okay, safe now. Fortunately almost every town I’ve been through has at least one public fountain and cafe owners are more than happy to refill water bottles, particularly after a purchase.

This first one has a constant supply of fresh spring water. It’s seen a few decades and is showing wear – but the water directly out of the pipes is clean.

And there’s always..

🤡

Seriously? As my son Adam would say, ‘That’s a hard no.’ Please, charity:water – no scary clowns. Our neighbors have waited so long – let’s not do that to them.

Made it to Estella about one and have been in siesta mode most of the afternoon. The temps did hit 90. The dorm room I’m sharing with another pilgrim from New Zealand is women-only, has a private toilet and shower, and is right on the river. …And, yes, the windows open. … I asked before I took the room.

River at Estella

More later…

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water

One thought

  1. Beautiful village. Sorry about the egg. Slightly erked by the ‘you must’ sign for the first pilgrim down ‘Will the first pilgrim please’! I guess the body must be purging itself – how interesting. Water out of a pipe, whether fountain or clown, is always appreciated. Go well.

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