Day 7
It felt like such a privilege to be out walking in the Spanish countryside before dawn. The temp was relatively cool. And I was able to find my way in the streetlights while they lasted. The countryside is still and even with no moon, signs are still visible. The dawn, when it arrived, was spectacular
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I’ve learned to take the estimated walking time from the guidebook and add an hour. I walk slower than the speed in the book and I stop for coffees, breaks, cute dogs, and photos.
There were probably a lot of prayers added by pilgrims with each of these stones and flags. A lot of memorial cards were mixed in as well. I stopped to add a stone and an intention.
The sun was brutal today. Lots of open pathway. I was so grateful for the patches of shade and pine forests. This haystack is as deadly as it looks. Best to keep a distance.
When I hit Viana there was a welcome shaded main pedestrian street with cafes.
The church bell struck 11:30 and I realized I hadn’t had breakfast. A bit further on there was a “Pilgrim’s Oasis” cafe with fancy chairs and tables out front – all available. Just across the other side were less expensive versions, jammed with local families and couples – speaking animatedly to one another and many of them smoking. The choice was obvious – eat where the locals eat! I had half a tuna / egg salad sandwich (for the protein), an anchovy / olive appetizer (for the salt), and a coffee con leche (because I’m in Spain and it was before noon). Fabulous, fresh, and very reasonable.
Headed out for another 11.5 km of mostly shadeless countryside which turned into a shadeless industrial area after a bit. I was so grateful for my Tilley brimmed hat! I did take advantage of an oasis provided by a local church along the way. Shaded picnic area with a fresh water fountain. I re-tanked my water bottle and added electrolytes.
Reached Logrono at about 2:30 and took the first alburge option – the church-run place in the shade of the giant cathedral. They offered a dinner option – but there are only a couple other pilgrims here and I’d rather head out to the plaza to reacquaint myself with some of the folks I’ve already met – rather than running the risk of dining alone. I’ve settled in, laundry hand washed and on the line. and will head out to the plaza in a bit.
More later….
If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please yfollow this link. Thank you!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water
Anchovies and olives – my favourite. Pilgrim smarts came into play again today with the choice of breakfast venue. Hope your evening meal worked out on a similar fashion. Don’t know if you are picking up any of the olympics, but Simone Biles won her third gold of the games on the vault today. So pleased for her after all the anguish, recovery and work following her mental health issues at the Tokyo games. Camino is an endurance event. Hope you get a break from the fierce heat soon and that you intention left as a stone shows it’s gave along the way.