Pamplona to Puente la Reina

Day 4

The street lights of Pamplona switch on at 4 am. The soft, warm light through the translucent church window was welcoming, not abrupt. I was up and out by 4:30 AM. I’d been a nerd last night and sidestepped the Pamplona restaurant life for a salad from the grocery store and the option to be asleep, thanks to earplugs, by 7 PM. Woken only briefly when fellow pilgrims came in at 10:30.

The city streets that had been buzzing just a few hours prior were completely deserted. The air temp was already 71. No jacket required.

Lest anyone is worried about my safety – please don’t be. Pilgrims are, in general, a ‘protected class’ in Spain. Long gone are the days of bandits. And, one of the features I might not have mentioned about my Macabi skirts that I hike in every day are the deep front pockets. By the end of day one, I was in the routine of my phone going in the front right for easy access for photos. In my left pocket I put my coin purse with cash for the day …and a can of Mace. I don’t anticipate ever having to use it but it’s good to know it’s within easy reach.

Sunrise wasn’t for another two hours. And, when it finally came up over the city and mountains in the distance I’d put two hours’ distance between myself and the heat wave.

I walked for a bit with Thomas, a fellow pilgrim from Northern Italy. I learned that he’s not currently employed, but does plenty of work growing vegetables and gathering firewood, which he uses to cook with and heat his home. We also talked about chickens. 🐓

The sunflower fields were stunning and I got to watch the flowers wake up. They went from drooped heads in the dark to slowly lifting their faces to greet the sun. I actually got video of them moving – not from a breeze, but from their daily exercise of following the sun’s journey.

The honey bees were busy at work in the fields. Every flower seemed to have at least one attendant.

And the butterflies were back en force. One little orange lady flitted in front of me for at least a kilometer. I couldn’t get a picture of her – but this is her cousin.

Highest altitude today was the Alto de Perdon. The mountain crest is dotted with 40 windmills and the power company sponsored the construction of the famous sculptures that the pilgrims pass on their way over the peak. The last figure in this photo is a jogger – who does this route up and down the mountain as his morning routine. 😳

The decent down the back side of the mountain was as steep and rocky as I remembered. Was grateful that the terrain was dry and for poles to balance myself. The addition of steps was helpful – but each of the riser drops was at least 18 inches, so poles were very handy.

I reached the end of the stage by 11 and stopped at the first bar for a good lunch.

Fresh OJ, coffee con leche, a toasted sandwich, and a bag of chips (for the salt).

Check-in wasn’t until 1:30, so I found refuge around the corner in a local cafe and got a lemonade for use of their chair.

It’s great to be here. I hand-washed my alternate outfit and it will have no trouble drying in the 95 degree sunshine.

Tomorrow I’ll carry my full pack. I’d been putting it off in the heatwave and while I was waiting for my hiking muscles to return. I was thinking the small daypack might be a source of discomfort, actually, as it’s lightweight but not designed for optimal back support. Temps are supposed to break tonight and tomorrow is not expected to be as ghastly. Time to go through everything again and jettison anything not absolutely essential.

Tonight – an actual cafe, perhaps on the Arga River if I can find one. And tomorrow morning – breakfast at 5:30 – then out.

More later…

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water

💕