Day 13
This is one of the few days that, though I was in an albergue, I could flip the room light on when I woke up. There was nobody else to wake up. After I packed up I headed out in the dark just after 6. After a few kilometers the sun started to rise over the hills. Absolutely stunning.
I stopped at the first cafe open for coffee and the only breakfast-type food they had … homemade almond cake. The piece was huge so I cut it in half and took half with me. I had to move inside and stand about a foot away from the WiFi box to get it to upload yesterday’s post.
Not far after that stop I was in a tiny town that had an abundance of cats. They all looked well fed and healthy. I’d stopped to take a photo of some chickens in a front yard. Then the farmer walked out with a big bucket of milk from milking his cows. He fed his cats fresh milk first. I thought that was lovely. Then he communicated via a few words that were familiar and some gestures that his wife was selling homemade fresh cheese for €2. Sure enough – there she was in the kitchen.
I didn’t really need that much cheese but bought it anyway. I can appreciate a good side-hustle. I had some for a snack. It’s about the consistency of tofu but tastier. I shared some with a few pilgrims in the next town who were from Michigan. And the rest (I couldn’t finish), no surprise, went to the dogs…all of whom approved.
Great walk today. My guide book mentioned that after Palas de Rei the path is shaded by forest. It did not disappoint. Beautiful and fragrant woods. Though the walk today was longer than yesterday, it didn’t feel like it. Plenty of places to stop and rest. I made it to Casanova by 1:30 and stopped for a sandwich. Then on 9 km to Melide.
About 5 km outside Melide there was a place with pup tents set up on the lawn and a sign warning of bed shortages ahead due to capacity being set at 30%. I already knew that. I also observed that the sign was only in English. Odd for Spain. Hmm… 🤭. I kept walking.
Made it to Melide by 4 and got the last bed in Albergue Melide – the first place I stopped. I’m thrilled that they have a washer and dryer. I didn’t feel motivated to do laundry last night at the hermitage so I’ve got a couple days’ worth.
More later…,
Beautiful sunrise. Looks more like half an almond loaf than a slice of almond cake! The cats just lure you in as a pre-sale for the cheese. Tastier than tofu! Come on you can’t be serious. Does it feel like you have been away for almost tow weeks? Hope you continue to find favour with albergue vacancies given the restrictions. The UK has just opened up to US citizens who are double vaccinated … so if you get stuck