Sarria to Gonzar

Day 12

I left Sarria about 6:30. Had a great night’s sleep. Decided to forego second dinnersies and also a second bath to just sleep. It was the right choice. Got almost 11 hours. Must have needed it.

I was mentally braced for the changes that I knew I’d see leaving Sarria. It’s on the cusp of the “legal minimum” for a Camino so lots of people start there. Lots. The cafes were full on the way out of town and just before I passed the last bit of town limits I saw a group of about 40 high school aged kids in matching sweatshirts getting instructions from their leaders. I hurried past and tried to give myself some distance. They had young legs and were just carrying day packs. I had a full pack and don’t run unless there’s a fire. So, it was just a matter of time before they caught up. Soon I was in the middle of them. I think the introverts were in the front pack soaking in the scenery and the extroverts were slowed down by chatting and were behind me.

Eventually I veered off to a cafe that they weren’t going to and let them pass. At that stop I also got a large piece of cheese – partly for a snack and partly to share with the patient dogs. The dogs on this part of the trail are so used to big groups of people walking by they’re not even phased. They literally lay in the street and let people walk around them.

I think the little white and brown dog was part basset hound, part mop.

A little while later I was delighted to hear a different kind of chatter. A little girl in a stroller being pushed along – she was singing in her little voice. Very sweet.

And, of course, it wouldn’t be a walk through Galicia if you didn’t pass a couple farmers moving cows along the streets.

(The second farmer had a working dog … who was also happy for cheese).

I made it to Portomarin just after one and had a big lunch there. I’d hoped to get my credential stamped in the church but there was a wedding about to start. (Further down the road I heard a cannon being fired several times and also fireworks, signifying the end of the wedding and the beginning of the celebrations.)

After my lunch I made my way out of town again and headed to the little town of Gonzar, just over 8 km further. It felt like 20. I’m not sure why. Lots of it was uphill. Parts were lovely and shady but there were no cafes along the way and it felt like a bit of a slog. I was relieved to get to this little town. The first albergue was full and they wanted to put me in a double room for €38. I suppose it would have been okay but I wanted to try the second albergue. Plenty of space. Only €8. In fact – I’m the only one in the entire place! The WiFi isn’t working. Dinner will be crackers and water. So, I guess this is my night in a hermitage. It’s a tad on the creepy side being the only one here. I walked around the town and there’s not much here. Lots of cows. Surprise!

Since there’s no WiFi – this won’t be posted until tomorrow when I make it back to ‘civilization’. Hopefully that will be my first coffee stop.

More later….

PS Hey – good news! Cows keep reasonable hours! At first I thought I might be sleeping next to a bovine frat house – but they were quiet by 10 and not mooing again until after 6:30.