Day 4
Today was a much better walk. Many of us left the albergue just after 6 when they opened the doors. It takes quite a while to make it out of Leon and the nearby suburbs.
Near the far rim of the suburbs I had to make a choice between the Camino Frances and an alternate route.
Last time I chose the former and I remember the day’s walk bordered a busy truck route on the highway. So this time I chose the latter. Right choice. 🙂
Remote dirt roads, open fields, beautiful wildflowers. Very few pilgrims.
I stopped in the first town for a coffee at a place that, according to the proprietor, just opened last Saturday for the first time. Nice place. I wish him well.
On the open plain I met Natalia, from Poland (who is doing the Camino by bike). She asked me to take her picture and, since we both spoke English, we walked together and chatted for a while.
At some point on our walk I dropped my hat. When she finally decided to ride off for breakfast I realized it was missing. I doubled back about a mile until I met a couple coming the other way. Fortunately, they’d seen it and picked it up. Was happy to get it back. I have trouble finding hats that fit. Need to hang on to them when I find them!
The last 5k was flat, open road with no shade. Unlike the other route though, traffic was few few and far between.
I’ve noticed something in the past few days. Like sailors of old who would rejoice at the sight of birds because they knew they were close to land … when I see residents out for a leisurely stroll I know I’m getting close. This senor brought me much hope that my destination was not far off. Nobody with mobility issues and an electric battery would get too far away from the town. We exchanged pleasantries as he passed.
A few hundred meters on I was also passed by a stern-faced, unamused lady on a bicycle also heading in his direction. Made me wonder if maybe he was making a break for Leon to relive his younger days. Beun Camino, senor!
Finally made it to the town I was aiming for. No reservation. I first tried Casa de Jesus but it looked a bit scary and the pool that had lured me in was dry. Kept going to Tio Pepe in the town center.
I’m getting spoiled. At first I requested a bunk. I opened the door to the little room and it was an inferno. There was a window but it was closed and shuttered. There was already an occupant sleeping and I didn’t want to have the conversation about opening the window. I walked back down and asked for a private room option. It has a private shower/restroom and window that opens to the shaded courtyard. For a few more euros I’ll actually be able to sleep. Worth it. It also comes with breakfast. Still cheaper than a Motel 6.
My big plan: Shower, laundry, siesta, dinner, early night.
More later…
Brilliant! You look so happy out on the open road, making good choices. Hope the old man made it to the bar before his stern faced companion caught up with him! Good option on the private room as well, there is no glory or worthiness in unnecessary sufferings. Go well. Loving your updates along the pilgrim way.