Day 5
First of all, a PS about yesterday:
On the open stretch of road in the last 5 km I stopped suddenly when I saw a. Stone – almost perfectly round and that appeared to be purposefully chiseled flat. I picked it up and was stunned to see what appeared to be a very old carving of a cross. Very faint from time, at this point. I showed it to a fellow pilgrim at the albergue who had some experience in archeology and he confirmed that it looks like a very old Norman cross.
There’s no way to know how old it is, nor who dropped it, nor what their circumstances. Also, as it was along the roadside off the pavement it could have either been there for quite some time or dropped there by the gravel truck. It’s a mystery. But I think many people would say the dumb luck factor is off the charts. It’s like someone from Europe visiting the Midwest for a few weeks and finding a genuine Blackhawk arrow head on a walk in the woods in an area well-trod by other people. It just doesn’t happen.
The courtyard was cleared out by the proprietor last night before 10:30. It was almost silent except a couple having a screaming match in the street. She was sobbing. Not sure what the issue was, but it was sad. I hope for both their sakes they can find people who don’t scream at them. Whether it’s a new and improved them – or someone different. Failing that, it’s sometimes healthier to be alone. I wish them well.
Since my room came with breakfast, la senora packed me a picnic breakfast with coffee, milk, a cheese sandwich, and an apple. I didn’t want to run off with her thermoses so I had the coffee with milk in the room before leaving. Then headed out under the full moon for over 30k.
Saw a lot today. The area has hard clay soil so not a lot of wildflowers. But the crops were well tended: hay, corn, wheat, and sunflowers.
Stopped in a cafe I’d stopped in last time. The chickens are now in their own run instead of running loose. But he has some exotic birds in the courtyard.
I remembered that in the town with the cool doors an old man last time had cautioned me to go to the right through the scenic route. I followed his advice again. Glad I did.
Since it was over 30k I’d sent my pack ahead to the place I’d stayed last time. Unfortunately, due to Covid, it was closed. This sent me on a treasure hunt to find my pack. The guy at the counter of the nearby Gaudi hotel took pity on me and called the transport service. They’d dropped it at the only other albergue open in town – about a mile away. So, more backtracking. Was glad to find it and grateful they had a bed for me. The room is clean and the windows open!! Only 7 euros, too.
Tonight I’m hoping for a healthy dinner, lots of water, and an early night. Tomorrow is a difficult hike so I’ll send my pack ahead.
More later…