Day 17
Got a relatively late start today. Decided to let the crowds go ahead. Bypassed the first town and agreed to stop at San Nicolas to treat my growling stomach to a cafe con leche and chocolate croissant. Also a fab place to upload yesterday’s post. About a kilometer outside San Nicholas I had to hand it to this bar owner.
He definitely knows his market. In town his signs led to ‘the 2nd Bar’ and I noticed there were no pilgrims in the first.
That same town had earthen hobbit dwellings complete with chimneys and antennas.
They also had the only version of bunting I’ve ever seen in the town square that was crocheted by some industrious resident. It was really ingenious and well done.
From the distance the town of Sahagun looked massive and industrial. These two long ago heroes stood guard just outside in the path.
Rather than be discouraged by the prospect of industry, I thought it would have something I was looking for … other than a cafe con leche and a bano … an open bank to change dollars to euros. As I approached there were warehouses, construction companies, a big new hotel, dental clinics, pharmacies, etc. And in the center of the town there was a square lined with numerous open banks. However, today is a national holiday of some sort and the banks were all closed for anything but local transactions for the morning. Wasn’t meant to be – so I kept walking. Maybe Leon? No worries.
At a very confusing cross section I was approached by someone asking which hostel I’d recommend in the town. I had no idea. And I fished around in my bag trying to find my guide book but couldn’t locate it. I thought I might have left it behind. At that moment a German pilgrim I’ve seen earlier in the trail came by and said he was going on to the next town 6k away. I went on with him and a couple other pilgrims.
We passed a shepherd out in a field with his sheep. No fences. I was amazed that as he walked slowly thru the field his sheep – all hundred or so – followed along slowly behind him grazing happily. It was so sweet to observe their relationship.
The path we followed to the next town was completely shaded by white-barked trees with leaves that resembled maples. The trees have bristly pompons on them that look like something Dr. Seuss would have imagined.
And, just when I thought it couldn’t possibly get any more beautiful…
I followed the path to a brand new albergue on the edge of Bercianos del Camino. Great room. Affordable. No bunks. And no rooms with more than 4. When I unpacked I found my guide book. Very, very grateful to have temporarily lost it as this fabulous place wasn’t listed.
Always a reason.
More later …