Day 16
You never want to read in a hiking guide book a stretch of your trek referred to as a ‘slog’. Just sayin’. The first 17k of today’s hike was without shade, for the most part, and completely without rest stops. The guide book warned to get plenty of supplies and water for the first segment because nothing would be provided. Fair enough. But, that said, for a ‘slog’ it was a pretty nice one. Open fields, even roads, beautiful flowers, and plenty of sunshine. No complaints.
As we first started out in today’s trek there was a section where someone had attempted to break up the landscape by planting poplars along the path. Between the ongoing swaths of poppies and the shower of white fluff from the poplar trees it seemed somewhat like a scene from Wizard of Oz.
I can’t even begin to accurately describe how vast the openness of 17k is when it’s all fields and completely flat. I did get to witness hay equipment moving massive bales from a stack from last season onto trucks to be used elsewhere. It was quite the production.
I mentioned I’ve been sans music for a couple days. Today I was inspired to revert to the playlist. A fellow hiker had her headphones in and was loudly shrieking – what I only hope was off key. I’m guessing it was in Spanish but who knows? As I passed her I was inspired to put my own headphones in to drown her out with my own tunes. It was wonderful to reconnect. It also helped to pass the time.
Along the way folks have scribbled inspirational graffiti in many languages. Today I found a couple in English that I found interesting.
After the first 17k and a rest and a pailla lunch in Calzadilla the scenery started to change. Small hills and trees returned and even the heavenly-scented yellow Broom plants. I was admiring these plants when an Australian couple passing by mentioned that in England they used to literally use the twigs from the branches to make brooms and that’s how it got its name. I need to find out if they grow in my area.
After 27k made it to Terradillos de los Templarios. It’s a very small town made most of adobe. Only two albergues here. The first looked like it had been transported in from someplace in Wisconsin. I keep going and opted for the one built in the middle of the older part of town. The town got its name from the Knights Templar, who used to guard the pilgrims. In 1307 the leader of the Knights was arrested and burned at the stake for heresy and trumped up charges (possibly politically motivated). This occurred on Friday the 13th and was likely the start of that superstition. Little did they know there would be a scary film franchise 700 years later.
Lovely dinner. Comfortable bed. Glad for the earplugs – needed them.
More later….