Bercianos to Mansilla De Las Mulas

Day 18

Headed out at daybreak with 30k ahead of me. The dimly lit dawn is peaceful and still.

Felt like the arrows leading out of town this morning were circling me around – an ingenious way to make sure pilgrims pass every possible point of commerce in the tinier towns when businesses are open. Can’t blame them, really. The small towns are being vacated by their youth at an alarming rate and they have come to depend on pilgrims for an influx of cash to help sustain them. When I finally made it out of town the path again straightened, hugged the main road, and was shaded by the same sort of trees. My mom thinks the trees might be Sweet Gum trees. I’ll try the test she recommended tomorrow and let you know.

I stopped for a coffee and bread 7k down the road in El Burgo Ranero. While there I was approached by Mia, a pilgrim from Finland. We had breakfast together and she told me a bit about herself and her Camino story.  We had an immediate connection when she walked up because she was wearing the same type of hiking skirt as I wear. She’s the only other woman I’ve seen on the Camino with a Macabi – tho at least a dozen women have approached me asking where I got my skirt, write down the website info, and want to feel the material it’s made from. I wish the company had a ‘referral’ program!  Mia and I parted ways after breakfast but I enjoyed our conversation and will be looking for her on the trail in upcoming towns.

Along the way I heard the rustling of probably reptilian residents in the bushes and grasses just off the path. I’ve seen their cousins of various sizes dart across in previous days. They’re pretty harmless – as are most critters – if you just leave them alone. Happened to see one dart across in an open patch and visit his/her home. I’m guessing this because his/her lizard love came out the front door to greet them.  Again, I have no idea which is which but have no doubt they’ve got all their domestic arrangements sorted.

The distant horizon changed again today. As I came over a hill I was greeted by the next mountain range which will be attempted in two days, just past Leon.  No sense in stressing it. I’m reassured by the statement I’ve heard over and over – that no day on the trail is worse than that first day from St Jean in France to Roncesvalles in Spain. And that day I lived to tell about.

Just after 1 I checked into El Jardin del Camino. (The Garden…)  I figured with a name like that it must be lovely. I am not at all disappointed. It’s got a walled garden in the heart of the town. Gotta like a well-groomed garden that comes with a pink flamingo at the fountain.

All shops in this town close at 2 on Saturday and stay closed until Monday.  Typical post-walk activities in play this afternoon. Shower, hand wash clothes and hang them in the garden on the line to dry, relax, write, possible siesta, contact home, then community dinner to connect with fellow pilgrims.

Oh, also, someone in this sleepy town periodically launches M-80s. The sound is unmistakable. Not sure what that’s all about. Speaking of which … these wildflowers make me pine for the upcoming 4th of July. 🙂

More later…

P.S. View from my bunk at siesta…