Today we pilgrims danced with the weather. The weather led, as usual. Rain, sun, rain, sun, clouds, more rain, etc. It’s best just resign oneself to get a bit wet, knowing we’re washable and will dry off before too long.
Last night I was feeling a bit under the weather, as it were. People who know me may have wondered why all the photos on yesterday’s post and not much verbiage. After a light dinner of pasta, I turned in by 7 pm – fully clothed, including my jacket. They provided a blanket but I awoke in the night and checked if I might have kicked it off. I had not. The Knights Templar alburgue had no heating of any kind. The bed / dinner had been €10, so I’m not complaining. I was able to find a second blanket on an empty bed and get back to sleep. I’d also woken in a start, bolt straight up, a couple times prior. The gentleman in the next lower bunk had red wine in a glass and had left the remnants on the chair between our bunks like it was a makeshift side table. I think the smell worked its way into my dreams and had an adverse effect. Strange how that works.
After a light breakfast this morning I headed out into the rain. I do remember this territory from 2018 and 2024. I also think I’m not nearly as weary nor worn out as I walk it this time. I think my new years’ resolution to not give in to Chicago winter weather and stay indoors on the sofa has paid off. I’d challenged myself to get at least 10,000 steps a day outdoors – no matter the weather. And, thanks to regular dog walks with my friend Sharon, midday walks around the park, and walking too and from the train – it’s really paid off.
This morning we were in farm country and passed by fields of young wheat, soybeans, barley, spring peas – the latter soon to be harvested and replaced with sunflowers.
At one point the pilgrim in front of me stopped, turned to his right, and started taking photos. I was amazed to see a church and abbey ruin – which I might have missed if he hadn’t done that.
I stopped for coffee and some delicious cherries in the first cafe. It was right next to San Andres, a beautiful church which, thankfully, was open to visitors. Beautiful music was being played, for the perfect atmosphere. Gorgeous.
We made it up the mountain to where the famous sculptures of pilgrims are featured under the modern windmills. The sculptures were commissioned by the power company – maybe so pilgrims wouldn’t mind so much that the windmills were placed across the Camino.
I half-joked with an Australian mom & son ‘now for the difficult part’ when we were heading for the decent.
Half-joking – but I had no idea how true it was today. I knew the decent is a steep grade and covered with loose stones, which makes it difficult. However once the sharp decline and stones were done – today we experienced a new challenge. Muck. Thick, clay muck. It went on for a couple miles and was so slippery it felt like ice skating. I was so grateful for my poles to keep me from landing in it – what a mess! I had to take a photo of my shoes when I was through it as they were quite a sight.
I had been tempted to try to clean them halfway through – but like picking up after a toddler or straightening things during the eye of a hurricane, that would have been pointless. Once the mucky path was done. I could get some of the mud off by scraping them on a low wall and, in the next town, standing near the downspouts of gutters. But, they’re going to need some love.
It started raining again – this time torrentially – before the next town / cafe. When I walked into the next bar I was dripping wet. I ordered a coffee and a piece of cake – fresh cake …it would have been rude not to.
All in it was about €6. In that storm they could have charged three times the normal rate for hot beverages and most pilgrims would have paid.
When dealing with a difficult hike, two strategies are my go-tos. Either send my pack ahead or book ahead. Today I was so glad to have opted for the latter.
I had booked into a place called Jakue. No idea what it would be like. High marks on prior reviews but I was really drawn to the washer / dryer. After today’s walk in the rain, everything that could be washed/dried was. This place is delightful. They have a hotel section, glamping section, and alburgue section. I inadvertently booked into glamping. It’s really deluxe. Got in early enough to get a bottom bunk. Started my laundry right away after my hot shower. And got a ticket to the early seating at the buffet dinner. Hoping for a relatively early night. You might guess by my copious writing that I’m feeling much better.
More later..
Please consider joining me as I walk for water…
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026
Mud clogs and cake! Glad you have a nice place to stay tonight hope it gives you a boost and restores you. Interesting to hear your observations on caminos past when you walk the same path as a different person. Grace and peace be with you.