Santo Domingo to Belorado

Day 10

Last night I found an outdoor dinner in the shade on the square – salad, fresh lamb chops, fries, and flan for dessert. I think that’s my favorite dinner menu in Spain, when I can find it. I was the first gringo there for a dinner – early by Spanish standards. After dinner I walked thru the main plaza and a crowd of townspeople and tourists was gathering. I asked an American there what was happening. He said they were going to give out a free glass of wine and a sausage sandwich to everyone – and then ‘burn the virgin in effigy.’ I’d seen the mannequin dressed in traditional Basque attire hanging near the tower before dinner and wondered what was going on.

I decided to give the whole event a pass. a) I don’t drink b) I’d already had dinner c) I don’t know how this one got started – and I know the whole ‘when in Rome’ argument – but burning a symbol of an ethnic minority in effigy sounds like a horrific idea. Correct me if I’m wrong.

As I stepped out of the convent this morning, the local church bells chimed 6 AM.

The morning in the countryside was overcast, pleasantly cool, and a mist was rolling over the local mountains. It was breathtaking.

I actually heard a pilgrim complaining there wouldn’t be a good sunrise this morning. And I thought – followed by a blazing scorching sun? There will be plenty of other days for that. Enjoy the moment!

Just after a coffee stop in Granon, I met a young man named Ramsey. He’s an independent computer programming professor. I could not place his accent for the life of me. I thought he was going to say something like ‘Philadelphia’ when I asked him. Elgin, Scotland. He said he’s also lived in England for a while so he’s also got an English accent mixed in.

The sun arrived soon enough. Today I passed by the largest sunflower field I’ve seen yet. Simply gorgeous.

Loving the ongoing collection of old doors. And someone apparently upgraded the stained glass in this church not long ago.

People who know me will know I’m feeding animals all along the way. This adorable guy was looking out his window probably not expecting someone to be carrying chicken-flavored treats.

On this morning’s walk I noticed how many mice and rat holes there were along the trail near the wheat and sunflower fields. Thousands of them. And the rodents weren’t hiding – they kept dashing across the road. I thought – this place needs some more good predators. Dogs, cats, hawks, owls… I’d even cheer for more snakes.

After one town I saw a couple coming the opposite direction with two dogs. I stopped and put treats on the ground for the pups ahead of them. The lady carried on but I chatted with the husband as the pups ate the treats. He said he and his wife had been living in the Ukraine but had recently left to hike the Camino. Now that they’d finished they were heading to France to work in the vineyards and start a new life there. He said they’d been camping and he’d been letting his dogs hunt the rodents. About half a kilometer later I got my wits about me and realized I should have cleared out my daily purse so they could have got some groceries. I really regret not thinking of it earlier. 😞

Arrived in Belorado about 1. Cuatro Cantones is one of the best-organized albergues I’ve been to. Clearly designed by someone who’s done a pilgrimage or two. I was given a bottom bunk on the ground floor and after the usual post-hike maintenance I dangled my feet in the water jets of the pool. I had bought a knee brace last night for help with the downhill portions, but think it was too small as it felt tight and my right ankle was particularly swollen. So I went out and found an adjustable version. I’ll clean up the first one and leave it for another pilgrim who needs one but might not be able to afford it.

Looking forward to the community dinner here tonight in the restaurant. I’ve already signed up. As has a fellow pilgrim from France. Her name is Peter …and I think we seem to be going about the same pace. And there are other pilgrims signed up that I’d love to chat with as well.

But, before dinner – I’m going to check on some chickens I hear clucking softly nearby.

More later….

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water