Day 9
Last night I dined with a fellow pilgrim, Cornelia, from Germany.
She is a deaconess there with the Lutheran church and I learned a bit about her work with the elderly community. It was a lovely time. We even fed the local sparrows leftover fries while we waited for the check. I couldn’t tell if the guy at the next table was annoyed or amused. We’re walking at different paces so I gave her my contact information and hope to stay in touch. I think that’s the best thing to do, rather than regret our personal decisions on pace.
I walk fairly slow in general and don’t mind when people pass me. I particularly enjoy it when it’s a small group of Italians. The words shared between themselves as they pass seem somehow curved and the cadence is up-beat but warm. It’s a language that is gentle on the ear.
This morning – out by 5:15. I’d watched one of my fellow pilgrims get a sad-looking cup of coffee in a paper cup out of the machine just prior to leaving… and I just couldn’t. But, really didn’t need to. On the path around the first turn there was a proper coffee shop just opening for the day. After a positively perfect cup of coffee I was off again.
On the way out of Nájera, happened to meet Mookie, who I’d first met in Los Archos. He’s a psychology professor at Boston College (and does some consulting work). We had a great conversation as we walked and found we’re mutual admirers of gorgeous sunrises.
We stopped at Azofra after about 6 km for another coffee and some breakfast. We also typically walk at different paces so, again, made sure to exchange contact info and said ‘until next time’. He went ahead on the trail and will probably be miles ahead of me now.
Today’s path went through one of my least-favorite towns in the Camino. Ciruena is a golfing community established by a development company. It was just as I recalled it. Soul-less. No old church, no plaza, no public parks welcoming pilgrims or families. No sounds of children playing. No dogs or cats wandering through the streets. No shopping places for folks to congregate. No fountains. No public toilets. Very few flowers. Most buildings were shuttered and the architectural design reminded me of a penitentiary. No thank you! Lots of places were for sale.
As I passed one of the last vineyards of the day, I finally caught an angle that shows how meticulously perfect they’re manicured.
The fields transitioned to wheat, hay, and sunflowers.
The road, however, has transitioned to an orangey clay dust. I particularly noticed this in the end-of-hike shower when my great base tan rinsed away down the drain.
Got a room at the alburgue run by the Cistercian nuns. It’s a bit spartan but sufficient and I like the thought of supporting their community. WiFi only works in the corner of the garden. 🌸🌺🌼🙂. I paid an extra 2 euros for a non-bunk bed. As I write I’m propping my (clean) feet on the wall to reduce any swelling in my legs.
A bit of a stroll later. Then dinner. Then an early night.
More later…
If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water
Glad you had company with Cornelia and Mookie. Love your observation about groups of Italians. I remember travelling home from a work trip to Israel/Palestine, looking down at my shoes on the London tube and seeing dust from Jericho on them. Hope the orange dust does not travel with you for that long. Thank you sisters for providing blessed rest for my friend.