Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

Day 1

What a day! Shored up this morning with the hostel manager then headed out about 7. She felt badly I didn’t get dinner so she sent me off with an extra hard boiled egg and a banana for a brunch snack.

The view was spectacular.

The first 8 km to Orisson were some of the most difficult of the day. After walking uphill the first couple hours, the site of Orisson around the corner was a welcome respite.

Had two cafe con leches and a fresh orange juice. Also refilled both liter bottles in the Orisson spring.

Just after Orisson the mist burned off and the sky opened up in a brilliant blue. At this point I stopped for sunscreen. The sounds at that point could be described as ‘bells, bleating, and some whinying’. It was open pasture for miles. Even the horses had bells and were allowed to free range and go where they wanted.

Met two French friends on the hike. About lunch time we stopped for a picnic lunch in the shade at a Marian shrine.

The statue was brought from Lourdes by the local shepherd. My friends opened tins of pate and I noticed the Griffon (vultures) started to circle overhead. I have no doubt they smelled it. They’re such impressive birds – with a wingspan of two meters.

I headed out and was passed in the woods by a young German who told me that he’d run out of water two hours prior. I gave him some of mine and a couple kilometers further we found the fount of Roland. Fresh spring water. He filled his bottle first and then refilled it again for the road. I gave him electrolytes to help him recover.

I was grateful for the shade of the forest. The tree trunks were all bent upward – where they’d fought for a balance between gravity and sunlight.

After miles of hiking uphill through pasture country I finally reached the top and the decent at that point was drastic. Through the woods, the trail was rocky and steep. I was grateful for my trek poles for balance.

At several points in the woods, the only vegetation was the trees and sparse patches of moss. The ground was covered with a carpet of fallen leaves for hundreds of meters – as far as the eye could see.

Was so grateful to finally get to the monastery/ hostel. Too late here to do laundry. It will have to be tomorrow. Happy to say – no blisters. But a wicked heat rash. I have allergy meds with me and hoping they’ll help.

Thanks for joining me!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water.

More later….