Roncesvilles to Zubiri

Day 2

i awoke in the night with excruciating charliehorses in each calf – so bad they made my foot muscles seize and my feet contort. I didn’t want to take anything for them because I already had antihistamine in my system and I needed to be able to get up this morning. After massaging the calf muscles I was able to get them to calm down enough that I could fall back to sleep.

This is the second morning when the pilgrims were awakened by Gregorian chant over the loudspeakers – but this time it was followed by one of the hospitalarios walking down the hall, singing at the top of his lungs – a bit like my brother in law Mark might do. We were suitably rousted, I had a nice continental breakfast, then headed out.

It was 70 degrees at 7 am and heat warnings were on the local weather report.

This first town had open gutters in the streets. Highly functional and the townspeople seemed to be completely used to them. Little ladies casually chatted together on their threshold bridges.

And I noticed the houses all had working shutters on the windows with the coolest tiny little ornate latches to hold them open. I genuinely appreciate cool hardware. I started ‘collecting’ the designs. Four different styles, thus far.

I’m in farm country now.

About 11:30 I stopped for a cafe con leche and then popped open the little cheapo umbrella to provide some shade. I was grateful for the shaded paths and that the rocky decent into Zubiri was dry this time. Far less likely to fall.

I felt cheered along today by butterflies. During the time I was walking – I’m sure there were thousands of mostly orange, but also white, yellow, and blue. Every time I was feeling exhausted – more butterflies would pop out of the grass and shrubs in front of me on the path. They were so lovely. Very small. And very encouraging.

By the time I hit Zubiri I was completely shattered. I sat on the first step in the shade I could find and laid my head in my arms until a little lady probably my mom’s age walked by and saw me. She was concerned that I get out of the heat. I’d portered my main pack ahead and she was able to direct me to the hostel where it was sent.

The attendant had compassion and carried my pack up, got me some cold water, and found me a chair so I could sit down during check-in. I’m so grateful to have made it here. One of the things I knew I needed was a laundromat. This place has laundry service for only 5€.

After lying down for a bit, I took a shower and then brought him all my laundry. Hoping to venture out in a bit to try to find a SIM card. And eventually dinner. I met an Australian lady on the trail today. Would love to catch up with her if she’s around.

As exhausted as I am, my heart goes out to the women and children who do walks like this every day for water – and they don’t have the option to get in a plane and fly home after a few weeks. It’s every day.

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water

More later….