Day 11
Today started just after 5. No alarm set – that’s just when fellow pilgrims started to stir. I was out by 5:30. I left my pack to be portered ahead. The proprietor called ahead last night to get me a space at A Pedra. They were out of beds in the albergue so I agreed to a single room. It was great to walk with a light load today.
It was cool this morning – below 50F. And the air was damp along the river. Gorgeous morning for a hike.
Not much was open. I stopped about 9k away for a coffee and some toast. And several k after for another cafe con leche.
About 11 I stopped in at a little art studio that had been closed last time I walked by. “Art’s Gallery” is a small stone building in the middle of the forest and alongside a beautiful river that, at this time of year, is quite mellow. Arthur Manton Lowe, from England, walked the Camino several years ago and had a dramatic conversation to Christianity. He now spends a lot of time painting in this delightful studio in the woods. He has been asked to exhibit his work at Windsor Castle three times and will hold a fourth exhibit there in September of 2022.
The artist was home. He has renovated the building wonderfully and lives in the portion on the lower level. He heard me creaking around as I walked thru his studio on the upper level, taking photos. He came upstairs and asked for my pilgrim credential and then sat down at his desk to paint.
We chatted while he worked and I bought some postcards. Fascinating story from a warm and generous person. His studio and art contains the verse from John 14:6: “Jesus said, “I am the way, the truth, and the life…”. After a quick tour, he asked if he could pray before I left. Just what I needed. Such a special gift.
I walked out into the countryside refreshed. It’s definitely cattle country. Big cows, little cows, spotted cows, two-tone cows, brown cows, white cows, pregnant cows. All the cows. …and a few sheep.
I made it to A Pedra by about 1. My room is a walk up to ‘the third floor’. However, it’s a European third floor so that’s four to me and my US friends. Jose carried my pack up, which was appreciated. And when I saw there was an actual bathtub included I felt much better. I might even take a second bath this evening … just because I can.
I walked a bit around the town until I saw a cafe packed with Spaniards. That’s the place to eat. A set-price menu, good value, delicious food, and great service. I didn’t tell them that I was there to eat dinner before 5:00. I’ll let them think it was a late lunch.
More later…
Brilliant! What a wonderful encounter with a generous person. You are collecting quite the treasure trove of experiences. Late lunch definitely whilst in Spain.
Words cannot describe what I;m feeling, Marilyn! I feel like I’m making the journey right along there with you. Thank you, dear friend, Lotsa love and stay safe.