Day 2
Last night’s dinner was a delicious fish main course with castillian soup as a starter. The soup is a pork broth base and I appreciated the vast quantity of salt it contained. Will help with needed potassium. Served with lots of water to drink.
5:30 AM start in the dark. My torchlight affixed to my clear water bottle illuminated the electrolyte water it contained and lit up like a lantern. Pretty cool. Enough light to see the yellow arrows that marked the way.
Morning sounds were roosters, birds, sprinkler systems watering sunflowers and corn crops, the scuffing of my boots along the gravel. Every now and then later on in the morning I would stop and listen to silence. It was glorious.
Sunflowers stood facing their namesake at dawn. They will follow it throughout the day and, at sundown, will be facing the other direction.
The first town I passed through was El Burgo Ranero. Such a picturesque town with old buildings, beautiful stonework, geraniums in window boxes, and hints of gardens, complete with chickens, behind stone walls. I could see retiring in a place like this. I wondered if the residents knew how exceptionally gorgeous their town is.
I got my answer on the way out of town. Around sycamore trees that lined the path exiting town, someone had carefully wrapped each tree trunk with hand-crocheted wraps. Not one or two – but dozens. They were obviously new and I thought of residents in lockdown passing the time with crocheting little squares. The artwork stopped at the walled cemetery just outside of town. I wondered how many of the 80,000 who died had lived here. It was clearly a loving tribute.
I also passed this little guy on the sidewalk. I couldn’t figure if he was a black crawdad out of water or the largest scorpion I’ve ever seen. Either way, I didn’t offer to shake hands.
Further along I noticed something that I’ve only seen in Spain. In rest areas along the way there are ginormous stone tables with stone benches. They could easily seat 20 – either a large family or a small community on a picnic.
A gorgeous small herd of large cattle rested in the shade of a poplar grove. No fence between them and the road.
I made it to Mansilla de las Mulas by 12:30. Just over six hours walking, with a couple quick breaks. The large municipal alburge is closed. Both remaining alburges are full. I’m waiting for my pack to show up and will either ask the proprietor if I can sleep under the stars in the gated garden – or will continue on to the next town and hope for the best.
Later…
Wow, unexpected grace. La senora of El Jardin found me a bed on a bottom bunk. Now just waiting for my pack so I can shower and get ready for dinner. In the meantime – perhaps a siesta.
More later…
Well done you! I admire your determination walking by the light of water bottle. I find silence can be oppressive or expansive (liberating). I am glad your early morning silence was the former. All manner of wildlife along the way as well as trees adorned with wooly jumpers. We had a knitting circle at church, unofficially called stitch and bitch! We all knew what it meant. Still many a university fresher left with a bed blanket to comfort them first time away from home. Glad you got the bunk bed I reserved for you it was the last one!