Foncebadon to Molinaseca

Day 23

This morning I arose before 4:30, in time to shut off the alarm before it went off. I’d had a good night’s sleep – thanks to a Benadryl tablet for my plant allergies and turning in at 7:30 pm. I carried my pack into the hall and re-packed it so as to not wake anyone in the dorm room. I headed out before 5 into the dark. I had a mini light attached to my belt to show me the way. Nothing but frogs, crickets, and an occasional mourning dove stirred. After just a few street lights I was alone on the trail with the exception of a black & white cat running towards home. The night sky was filled with far more stars than I can see from my home’s backyard and the Milky Way, the former guide for early pilgrims, was directly overhead from east to west.

After 2 1/2 kilometers the tree cover opened up and I saw the silhouette of the cross against the night sky. I climbed the little hill to the cross, took off my pack, and had some quiet reflection in the dark. I had brought with me a stone from home – one side was engraved with the former name of my employer and on the other I summarized the prayer of St. Francis that is in my Pray List. “Serenity, Courage, Wisdom”

From all over the world people come here to leave behind a burden or momento of some significance.  When the dawn started to break through I saw at the cross photos of couples, memorial cards from funerals, a couple special Christmas ornaments, children’s small toys, rosaries, and stones. Lots of stones. Some with words on them. Others with pictures. Some from far away places (lava, granite, colorful hues that I didn’t recognize). Each item was carried from a long way and, leaving it here at the cross is a symbolic lightening of one’s personal load.

After about 30 minutes I was joined by another person and then gradually more and more. They appeared thru the woods with small lights – which reminded me of a children’s book I’d read to my kids each fall. Neighbors came to visit when they saw Rebecca Estelle’s lights in the distance.

After a while I headed down the mountain. Today was a 1,000 meter decline – just a different set of muscles. After a few hours of balancing on downhill stones it felt a bit like I’d been doing sit-ups all the while.

On the way I saw a herd of very happy cows on the high pasture.

Beautiful mountains – you can barely see a little village hanging on to the cliffs.

And beautiful small towns to walk through.

Yesterday was the first time I’d made an actual reservation to stay anywhere and it turned out to be a complete disaster. Today I decided to carry everything with me and head out without a plan. My thought was to just stop when it seemed like a good spot.

As I neared the bottom of the mountain, I heard the river before I saw it. As I rounded the bend the gorgeous ancient town of Molinaseca lined the river. It wasn’t the official “end of the stage” in my guidebook – but I have enough days before my departure than I can slow down a bit and enjoy the scenery more. Found Albergue Compostela just off an alley. 11€ for a single bed (no bunk) and an extra 9€ for the pilgrim dinner.

I spent the afternoon using their washer/dryer to do all the laundry in my pack – including the sleeping bag…. which after almost 4 weeks of constant use, it probably could have walked to Santiago without me. Met and hung out by the river with some friends who were passing thru on their way to the next town. Took a little siesta. Was able to make contact with my family. Then headed down to dinner just as storm clouds broke over the mountain.  Dinner was a mini meeting of United Nations. There were only 8 of us but it included Italy, US, Canada, Brazil, France, and New Zealand. The food was simple, delicious, and nourishing.

It’s wonderful to now hear the thunder and rain rolling thru the valley and I’m glad I’m not on the mountaintop in the lightning. I feel badly for those who need to come down the mountain tomorrow on wet stones and mud.

More later…