Mansilla to Leon

Day 19

The guide book says that if one is thinking of skipping a segment of the trip and taking a cab or bus that this would be the one they’d recommend.  I’m hoping to walk the whole way so I ignored the advice. It’s Sunday so most of the businesses along the way are closed. And there are segments that would never end up on a post card. For folks from my area, it’s a lot like walking through an aging part of Ogden Avenue. Warehouses, car dealerships, repair shops, truck stops, brickyards. There was, however, still a lot of beauty to be found.

The town of Villarente is named for the old Roman bridge that greets travelers as they enter. No fewer than 20 arches are built into it to span not only the Rio Porma but apparently the entire flood plain so that the town isn’t isolated or drowned out during flooding.

These gorgeous roses were on a wall just across from a huge cell phone tower on the hill just outside Leon.

After winding down the hill thru a small pine forest, massive Leon appeared on the landscape below.

I followed the signs to he older part of town where I heard music coming from one of the squares. It was a Basque festival. Many groups of performers played, sang, and danced throughout the afternoon and evening. I joked with my husband later that it was a ‘battle of the bands’.  I ended up in a Benedictine hostal just off the square.

I’d intended to meet some pilgrims for tapas for dinner – but they started before 5 and I wanted to attend mass at 6 at the great gothic cathedral in the heart of the old city. Mass was lovely. So sweet to meet with people from all over the world to celebrate Jesus.

Thought this scene was very appropriate for Father’s Day. This wee one was fascinated by the statue of a father and child.

And these adorable kids were drawn to the balloon man outside the cathedral. A universal Pied Piper.

Afterwards I tried to find the pilgrims but couldn’t get a signal to find their starting point. Went back to the plaza with the music festival. Moved a couple times to find some shade and decided to give up on tapas and get dinner at a restaurant off the plaza. Leon is touted as the gastronomic capital of Spain. If ever there was an evening to deviate from the pilgrims menu of salad and pasta – this was it.  I was studying the menu and asked the folks at the table next to me what the word for cooked lamb is. One gentleman had a translator and located the word.

The patio was filling up so they asked me to sit with them so a group of Spanish ladies could sit down. They asked where I was from and then they said they were from Baltimore. We chatted a bit about that because my daughter and her husband live there. Turns out I was sitting with the bishop of Maryland, from the Episcopalian church, and a member of his staff and a lovely lady who may have been an assistant.  They are here with a group that is doing the route by car and also walking portions.  Wonderful conversation. Afterwards they joined in at the hostel chapel for evening prayers and blessing of the pilgrims.

More later…