Day 1
I woke up yesterday morning to the sound of a recording of women singing Gregorian chant, courtesy the hostel’s rules – no alarms are allowed. Fabulous way to start the day.
In all the sources I’ve read, the first day is always the worst, due to the terrain and steep ascent. It’s a 15 mile climb up 1,440 feet and a 3 mile descent to the medieval hostel. At the 8k point I took my husband’s advice and portered my bag ahead. I couldn’t have survived the terrain without the hiking poles he gifted me for Christmas. They took the stress off my back and knees. As rough as the terrain was, the landscape was amazing. Gorgeous green fields, wildflowers, forests, and hills. Cattle and sheep dotted the pastures. At one point the fog and mist rolled in and I was alone in the road for a good stretch. I played several albums on my phone. Just as the fog rolled in it switched to Joshua Tree – which was perfect as it’s a haunting album.
I could hear bells on sheep and goats through the fog but couldn’t see them – no wonder the herdsmen use bells! When I’d given up on seeing the sheep there in front of me on the road was a huge flock. The song switched to “Where the Sheep Have No Name”. I know that’s not it really but in that moment that’s what I heard.
At one point in the forest it started to rain and kept up for several miles. I was thoroughly drenched but glad I was still warm.
I thought the worst was behind me when I made it to the summit. The last few miles were through the forest at a 60 degree pitch on what was effectively a stream bed full of rocks and mud. So grateful to have got good boots!
After 10 hours of hiking I finally reached the hostel. I was given the last bed in ‘the good wing’. The pilgrim meal was simple but lovely. The I headed straight to sleep.
Early night.
More later…