It’s been a lovely day of walking. I knew I had a bed reserved at the end of my day so I felt I could really take my time. I headed out just after dawn and noticed a sign before the edge of town: a bakery was about 100 meters off the trail. A simple sign said ‘Pan’ (bread) and by the delicious smell that hit me when I opened the door – it was obviously fresh out of the oven.
I asked for toast with butter and cheese and also enjoyed First Coffee. The owner was a sweet little lady named Lourdes.
She was happy to have a pilgrim customer and was trying to practice her English. She was also patient with my Spanish. The place had only local customers the whole time I was there – so I sent a note with my recommendation to a few pilgrims who might have been coming along behind me.
Not far afterwards I met Gerwyn and Linda Owen, who I’d met yesterday.
They were the couple who had also been walking to the monastery and they’d witnessed the conversation with the guy at reception. We walked and chatted for a while. They’re from the UK. We stopped together at the next town that had a little coffee shop and a view of sheep and an old fort at the top of a mountain.
After a delightful conversation I walked on ahead (as I tend to be slower than most people.). I think they might have stopped at the next town for a lunch. I’d had a yogurt with fruit when I stopped – so I was good to keep walking for a bit.
For me today’s landscape was about the sweeping wheat fields and the beautiful sound of songbirds.
I stopped often to just listen to the birds. So many different songs. I let several small groups of people walk by me so I didn’t have voices competing with the birds. At one point I also hear storks clattering in the distance but didn’t see any today.
Also took a few minutes in the shade to listen to this song: https://open.spotify.com/track/7v4dq1VhVjUU857z1UZ2sI?si=RNfg8KXaSim353PTSPafnQ. Centering Prayer, by Porter’s Gate. Sent to me by a dear friend. 🙂🥾🌅
Made it to the albergue before the skies opened up with more rain. Laundry service was €1 for wash and an extra €2 for a dry. And the hostess did the laundry for us. At those prices it would have been rude not to.
Had a communal dinner with pilgrims from Italy, Germany, Ireland, and Australia … and that was just our little table of six. There were two other tables just as full. Dinner was salad, bread, lentil soup with sausage, and ice cream for dessert. Lovely end to the day.
I’ve also spent some time this evening booking accommodations for the rest of the week. Temps are supposed to rise this week and I don’t want to have to rush to get anywhere. Feels good to have a place in each town. Last booking will be Burgos, which I don’t think will be difficult.
It’s the end of week one. My stats thus far:
Steps: 236,373
Floors: 201
Miles: 84.4
More later.,
I’m walking for charity:water to help fund water projects for folks who need clean water. I’d love it if you’d join me…
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026
