I’m getting into the rhythm of the Camino – so much so that I realized this morning I’m already losing track of days / dates.
I knew from prior years that today’s decent into Zubiri ends in a brutal slope. And, since it had been forecasted to rain off and on throughout the day, I sent my pack ahead to the pension where my reservation was so I didn’t have to carry it down that last hill. A purist would frown upon this – but, alas, I’m not one. Good call as I headed out for the day into a drizzle of a rain.
The rain was, indeed, intermittent and the cloud cover / mist was very low.
I stopped about 2 km out at a family-owned cafe for an excellent First Coffee and a chocolate croissant. I asked the host how to say ‘thank you’ in Basque. ‘Eskerrik asko.’ I must practice that.
Not long after this I met Trish, a pilgrim from New Zealand. She’s hiking the Camino and then visiting friends and will aim to be back there by September. We hiked together all day at a similar pace – pausing to enjoy flowers, horses, birds, and trees.
We also happened across some impressive moss, as the forests are damp and dark.
Early on (9:30ish) we passed a field with horses and several foals. The wee foals were all lying down in the grass taking morning naps. Exhausted already from their morning activities. It was quite adorable.
What stood out to me in the villages was the age of the buildings. Some dated back 300 years and they were obviously built to last for many generations.
Saw several familiar faces along the way and chatted with folks as we walked.
We arrived in Zubiri by 2. I checked in to the pension – the same room I had here in 2018, with a window that opens to a Roman bridge and the sound of the Arga River.
Met pilgrims at Bar Valentin, recommended by Walk With Efren, for a late lunch / early dinner. Went back a bit later to meet more friends and chat for a while.
Had a bit of excitement towards the end as two local horses and their foals had escaped and their owners were out trying to track them down. We were able to flag the owners back when the horses walked out from along the riverbank and were in the parking lot. The foals didn’t need to be roped, as they naturally stay right with their moms. Fun ending to an active day.
Early night tonight.
More later…
Please consider joining me as I walk for water…
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026
