It’s a good day when one steps out the front door into pre-dawn and smells fresh bread baking. And an even better day when the bakery is open for business. Great start, as I got a multi-grain baguette for the trail and headed up the hill.
The first 8 km to Orisson Refuge is all uphill – it’s an elevation gain of over 900 meters. I was grateful to have a reservation just beyond at Borda because it meant I could take my time. I stopped often to look at the flowers, listen to the birdsong, and enjoy the sun and breeze.
Stopped at one point to take a photo of an old barn in the distance and these two lovely donkeys came trotting around the hedge to have their foreheads scratched.
I wished I’d had carrots or apples for them. Such sweet creatures.
I stopped at a house for First Coffee – pretty sure it was instant. I don’t typically mind instant – but glad for a little cinnamon to doctor it up.
About 10:00 I noticed the griffons hovering high over the valley. They’re large birds (3 meter wingspan) and are in the vulture family (so they only eat things that are already dead, rather than looking for prey to hunt.) Like vultures I’ve seen at home, they are very social creatures and travel in large families / tribes.
I was also so happy to see the broom – a yellow flowered shrub with an aromatic scent. To me, it’s the scent of the springtime Camino.
Orisson Rufuge is nestled in a large bend in the road. One cannot see it until about 100 meters away. After a few hours of steep incline, it’s such a welcome site. They offer hot and cold beverages, food, a restroom, a fountain to refill water bottles, and an amazing view of the valley. They also have rooms / beds but a reservation is recommended.
I stopped for coffee on the outdoor patio and chatted with Guy, from Australia, and Elga, from Italy. They’ve already been on the road for a month as they started in Le Puy, in France. They said the hiking across France in that area is up and down hills all day and requires a bit of training prior. Elga was born in Switzerland and moved to Italy when she was seven. She hasn’t spoken French for 40+ years but said that one day on their hike it just all came back to her. They’re staying in refuge this evening.
I headed out after a bit and walked another km to Borda.
We’re clearly in the pasture area of Basque Country. Cow bells could be heard nearby and the view from the back patio was stunning.
A sign on the coffee area wall details how, for generations, Basque families have followed the ancient agricultural practice: pastoralism. Every year, from early May, they’ll move into the countryside with their animals (cows, sheep, horses) to allow for six months of grazing. The sign went on to detail how to respect the shepherds: leash dogs; walk around the herds; respect the natural environment. We are the guests here.
Registration opened at 2:30 so a few of us who arrived early enjoyed the sun on the back porch. However, due to the mountain breeze, I was very glad for my 3-in-1 jacket. It’s still early days of summer in the Pyrenees. There was intermittent rain showers / sun later in the afternoon. It was the perfect weather for a rainbow.
Indeed…
Alburgue Borda is an eco-friendly hostel. As we share the water table with the other families and all the animals, water is conserved. We were each given a token for 4 minutes on shower water. The system allows one to pause water mid-shower. I was happy to see that they take water seriously. It turns out 4 minutes is more than enough.
We shared a delicious communal dinner prepared by Michel, our host, who is Basque and grew up in SJPD. Our meal was graced by Sorgin, the queen of Borda (the name actually means ‘Witch’ in Basque and is a reference to an historical incident.)
We shared lots of stories (in several languages) and laughter (universal). As promised yesterday, this is the link to Stuart’s campaign for Alzheimer Scotland, where he also volunteers regularly.
https://www.justgiving.com/page/stuart-donaghey-2?utm_medium=FR&utm_source=CL
As I write this from my bed, cow bells can be heard clanging in the nearby field.
More later…
I’m also walking for charity:water this year. You’re welcome to join me.
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026
Let the gentle chime of the cow bells ease you to a good rest. Stunning views today. Thanks for the update.