Our host last night warned us of a major tech music festival in the next end point ahead. So we booked ahead – a private room in a residence. He also gave us a great recommendation for the only coffee shop along the beach in his town that opened by 7 AM. So glad we took all his advice. First Coffee was delicious. Also, I learned that the Portuguese actually call the treat I love for breakfast a folhado de chocolate… just in time to change back to what the Spanish call it.
The day was misty and overcast, for the most part. Gorgeous views of the natural coastline as we walked out of town. It was low tide and we watched tiny crabs playing in the sand, water birds looking for breakfast, and perfectly camouflaged brown bunnies hopping around in ground cover the same color and height as they were – just two little ears sticking up to give away their location when they hopped.
I don’t think I’ve mentioned it before but what has struck me about the stunning Portuguese coastline has been the complete absence of litter and the fact that there are no high rises or resorts directly on the beach. The whole coast is for public enjoyment – and the people take care of it.
At the town’s edge the arrows directed us inland a bit. Today’s part was mostly through towns and forests. Lovely walled gardens with gorgeous flowers visible over the top.
A few big churches, some open to visitors.
Forests of giant eucalyptus trees.
And even a couple storks.
We stopped a few times for coffee and snacks and met other pilgrims along the way.
At last we reached the giant steel bridge that we needed to cross to get to Viana do Castelo. Several stories above the water, several football fields long, and the wind was frightfully strong. I don’t have a photo of it because I didn’t dare take my phone out of my pocket for fear of it getting blown into the river.
We finally got to the last town and made our way, with the help of several strangers giving us directions, to the cab line outside the bus station. We needed a cab because the residence was several miles outside of town center and we needed to check in by 5 PM. (We’ll take a cab back in to town to restart our walk in the morning.)
Our hostess graciously greeted us at the gate at the wall and gave us a tour of our accommodations to drop off our packs – and off the estate…yes, estate. It’s been in her family since 1870. Contains a lovely private family chapel, several vintage grain storage buildings (no longer in use), a huge manor house, a gated area for one of the family’s thriving family businesses, a swimming pool, an olive grove and fruit tree orchards, and several outbuildings, some of which they’ve converted into meticulously-appointed guest houses.
Our room was a mere €153 for both of us. And especially considering we’d nearly missed the bustle of a crowded town center with a tech music festival… amazing.
After soaking our tired feet in the pool, we got ready and walked to the nearby restaurant she’d recommended. I was a little nervous when I saw the Michelin postings – this was not a mom & pop place – but it was actually really reasonable and the food was fantastic. Very fresh and filling.
Susie is a bit under the weather. We’re playing the next few days by ear – but we’ve booked the next two nights ahead so we don’t have to stress it.
More later…
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2025
Chocolate, the breakfast of champions! Glad the stay over in the estate provided the accommodation that you are used to! Especially if it avoids a tech conference. Hope Susie bounces back.