Our alarms went off at 5 AM. This, after we’d both experienced insomnia due to jet lag and dorm room snorers (in spite of our ear plugs). We were also excited about starting the hike. I remember seeing 3:15.
Over 20 miles along the coast today.
It was wonderful to get out of Porto before the tourists and venders crammed the streets and sidewalks. Just us, early morning joggers, a few fishermen, and a couple security guards. Witnessed a gorgeous sunrise while coming out of Porto along the river – and the Atlantic. Some pilgrims bypass the first part of the walk because it’s partly industrial. They bus or take a train to start beyond it. But we found it to be gorgeous.
Plenty of wildlife along the river – they even have bird sanctuary areas. Saw plenty of water birds, including a couple swans.
As we turned the corner to head north along the Atlantic – the scent of the ocean was mesmerizing. Salt water and fish, delivered on a fresh morning breeze.
The coastal terrain was a combination of sandy public beaches and the environmental sanctuaries of grassy dunes, cordoned off to keep the public from trampling natural treasures of flora and fauna, insects, and birds. Plus, it keeps the shifting dunes intact. How wise of the country’s leaders to respect nature. When I say cordoned off – I’m referring to almost 20 miles, this far, of wooden boardwalk with guard ropes. Quite the engineering feat. Some patches were in better shape than others – and it’s probably a constant effort to keep them in a walkable condition. Impressive, none the less.
The public beaches were loaded with sun bathers. What impressed me about each of these beaches was the array of colorful sun umbrellas. It looked like everyone made an effort to bring something festive to the beach party.
We met a couple nice ladies along the way. Marie from Germany – Catherine from Canada. Interactions with fellow pilgrims are very pleasant but often fleeting. We always hope to see them later.
We stopped a few times for snacks and a decent small lunch.
Towards the end of our walk today we were waved into the very old church of San Sebastián. We were given a stamp for our pilgrim’s passports and were mesmerized by the patron’s wife who was quietly and swiftly weaving lace for the sacrament cloths. Truly a labor of love.
So grateful to make it to our pre-booked beds, shower, do laundry at the local Big Bubble laundromat, and head down the street to find a local pilgrim’s menu meal. Fish, please. It has to be fresh! Our dinner also included four carbs: vegetable barley soup, rolls, rice, and French fries. We’ll be glad for that tomorrow. We went from being a bit hungry to quite full.
My -2 hour night sleep is wearing thin and I’ll be glad to hit the pillow.
It’s been a great first day.
More later…
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2025