Oliveria to Muxia

Day 33

Somewhere in the dark before dawn I walked out of exclusively corn country and the mindset that went with it. On the map, today was just as long as yesterday – but mentally it wasn’t as draining. 

Stopped for First Coffee as dawn was breaking. The site of an open cafe at dawn is a wondrous thing to behold. Got a massive slice of freshly homemade marbled coffee cake and two coffees.  From the get-go this morning I wasn’t in a big hurry and wanted to savor the moments. 

This was the last day I’ll be hiking this Camino – and what an amazing day for it!  Cooler temps, overcast off and on, a bit of a spitting drizzle at times mixed with blue skies as well. This was just bound to happen- but not the odds that I’d catch it right in front of me… 

At the top of a hill just beyond the town named Hospital, two signs directed to opposite goals. I already felt like I’d chosen the better route because mine was 3 km shorter than the other. 

Most of the pilgrims I was with last night were going to Finisterre- and I was off to Muxia. After the signs, I felt like I had the Camino to myself. Just saw a handful of pilgrims and most of them were heading back from Muxia – not on the way there. 

The scenery was gorgeous. All in the same day there were eucalyptus forests, rolling hills with horses in the pastures, beautiful old villages, ruins of older buildings that made me wonder what it would take to restore them. Waterfalls, the return of purple heather, mossy / fern-filled dense woods, walled orchards surrounded by fuchsia geraniums, entire hillsides of morning glories in purple, white, or pale pink, and deep, rich green fields punctuated by random orange wild orchids. 

Unlike yesterday’s corn bonanza – I was feeling like I didn’t want it to end. The wind was fairly strong at times, clearly coming over the hills from the direction of the ocean. One valley was steeped in mist and a smattering of rain – then I’d walk over the hill and there’d be blue sky. Such an amazing,  varied day. 

Finally, after the trail marker from 7 kms from Muxia – I saw the ocean. What an amazing moment. And the air shifted to the scent of saltwater.

Shortly after that – on a long uphill trek I saw, coming the other way, a young Danish couple who I’d shared an albergue with a few days before Santiago. As they got closer – a standard ‘Buen Camino’ seemed too perfunctory and a sweaty hug seemed too personal…. But I held up my hands and we did what seemed to be a very fitting high-5.

I fed A LOT of cats today. They were everywhere in the towns. Some more well-fed than others. And a horse riding club road through.  I held up a couple carrots and they turned up their noses (the riders…I’m pretty sure the horses would have been into them).  So, I thought it was fitting that after they rode by a second time (after stopping) I saw a mama and junior donkey pair in the field. Mama donkey was so happy to get them. Junior was still nursing so when he dropped his carrot and mama picked it up – I didn’t stop her. Was just glad they’d found happy recipients.  

So… you know what I’d said about not wanting the hike to end… well, shortly after the donkeys I missed a trail marker and wandered down a coastal road til it ran into the beach and I realized I hadn’t seen a marker for quite a while. I backtracked and figured it was probably 2 km out of my way. But, what an amazing view there and back. 

When I got back to the sign post I’d missed and saw I was about 5.5 km from the end point I rolled my eyes at the 4 extra kms I’d just done. But then I remembered what I was telling myself in the first few days when there were hardships…. Marilyn, you’re one of the most fortunate people you know. You’re walking in beautiful Spain. You’re alive, you’re able to walk, you have the time off, albeit partially unpaid, you have the resources with which to travel, and you’re out walking in Spain!! So what if everything isn’t perfect or you take a scenic detour?!

Someday – once my hair has long since turned snowy white – my knees might give out and walking the Camino might not be an option. I could picture myself renting a convertible and doing the road route, stopping at key paradors along the way. But, those days have not yet come. For now, I’ll be grateful for a detour or two. 

Made it to the final hill down to the beach and got on a planked boardwalk to Muxia for the last 2.5 kms. About then is when I heard the first seagull. Unlike Finisterre, the beach here is beautiful white sand.  I followed the boardwalk – then the sidewalk in through town.

I had just turned up the main trail to the final marker when I was stopped by Claudio – who I haven’t seen for weeks!  He directed me to the pilgrim’s office for the addendum compostela from Muxia. So grateful to get it. I also asked him for an albergue recommendation and he gave me the name of a great place. Centrally located, secure, clean, reasonably priced. And it’s right next to a supermarket. I booked myself in for two nights.  Tomorrow – I rest and enjoy the beach. 

I hadn’t done laundry last night so today is a huge load & washer / dryer day. Yes, it’s a tank top and shorts evening but I was glad to have packed a wind breaker as it was needed in town. 

I wandered around a bit looking for a pilgrim’s menu but couldn’t find one. Eventually went to the supermarket and made a nice salad in the albergue kitchen. 

Great day. I’ll do an end of trail recap tomorrow. For now, rest. 

More later…

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water