Day 28
This morning I was so grateful to have put the extra 8 km between myself and the crowds at Portomarin. I decided to do today what I did yesterday- get up whenever I naturally woke up and walk, with reasonable comfortable breaks and meals until 5 PM. Today that put me in Melide.
There wasn’t much of a sunrise. A heavy cloud cover squashed it shortly after it got started.
After First Coffee the clouds started wafting mist – then before I released it, it had turned to a light rain – then a downpour. In rain, I typically prefer rain jacket to a poncho. But in circumstances like today – I’m actually in the ‘I’m already wet, it’s relatively warm out, and I’m moving to stay warm’ camp. So – I just kept moving No lightning today and I found it to be a refreshing shower.
About 10:30 I ducked into a cafe and asked for hot chocolate. What I was served was absolutely amazing. It had the distinct consistency of hot chocolate pudding – just before it chills and solidifies. He’d used hot milk and some sort of powder so I dare say that’s what it actually was. But, what an amazing hack. Why didn’t we think of this sooner? When you come in from the rain you don’t want a thin chocolate beverage – you want a hot chocolate that will actually warm you and stick to your ribs.
Before I headed out from the cafe I needed to use the facilities. There was a youth group / school organization of some sort in the cafe apparently waiting out the rain. One of the leaders wandered into the restroom in front of me. It was a solo room. She didn’t close the door but stood there fussing with her hair and rearranging a hairclip. One of the guy leaders saw what she was doing and told her to get out of the pilgrim’s way. I only took a minute then made way for her to reenter the room. What she was doing was just such a foreign activity on the Camino. There I was – drenched hair, no makeup, looking scraggly at best – and I was fine with it. I picked up my pack and headed back out in the rain.
I thoroughly enjoyed the walk. Plenty of eucalyptus forests – they smelled incredible, particularly in the rain. Pine forests, too. And I had them mostly to myself.
About 12:30 the rain stopped and the sun came out. My clothes were dry almost instantly and the sun warmed me through.
About an hour later I stopped in to a small chapel. A volunteer was there giving out stamps. But the real attraction was the gorgeous smell of incense and the warmth and glow of hundreds of red candles. Beautiful statues there as reminders. Really a special place.
I stopped for lunch shortly after. The cafe was clearly a family business and when I requested a sandwich, the owner was very proud of the homemade bread. I went with cheese and tomato. He even gave me a fresh peach – no extra charge. The bread was of a traditional, very thick variety. I couldn’t eat it. Eventually I made it into an open-face sandwich, which worked. I didn’t dare throw out the other piece of bread, lest I insult him – so I took it with me when I left. I carried it to Melide hoping I’d come across a goat who might want it – but no such luck. I eventually had to discard it.
I arrived in Melide about 5 after a great walk and made my way to the older part of town- marked by the church steeple. On the way I passed this beer commercial mural. The artist was commissioned to hand-paint locals all over the giant walls in the region. This one made me chuckle because it looks like he’s looking at the ‘smalls’ on the neighbor’s clothes line.
As I approached the old part of town, bells started ringing. A bit too late to be on the hour and it didn’t stop at five. When I rounded the corner I realized it was announcing a hearse. I stood to the side and didn’t move until the car had stopped and the casket had been carried into the church.
Near the old part of town is typically where albergues are found. The first one was full. The second one was creepy. I ended up finding a bed in the third. Newer features, municipally-run, and only 10€.
Laundry is being done (too late for handwashing to dry so I’m splurging on washer & dryer) and it’s time to find dinner!
More later…
If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water
We had rain at Greenbelt today without the benefit of the nice eucalyptus fragrance. A wonderful transatlantic interview with Richard Rhor, our wise elder. The hot chocolate sounds amazing. Hope you continue to avoid the crowds. On! On!
I am glad you were able to get going before the rest of the world. The rain, trees, green, cooler weather, and delicious smells must be such a wonderful change.
Love and Hugs and Prayers for YOU,
Karen