Day 20
No other pilgrims joined me in the room last night – so it was a very inexpensive ‘private’ room. … which meant I could flip the light on this morning to gather my things and dress. Dinner was a solo affair as well…sort of. Dinner of mixed salad and a sandwich.
My dining companions.
The little black & white kittie had been missing for a month. One of the neighbors thought they saw her hanging out at an albergue 12 km away. The owner went to pick her up and this was her first evening back. I gave her some of my tuna and egg from my salad as a ‘welcome home’.
I got a bit turned around heading out of town this morning. Fortunately I didn’t go too far and, also, a Spanish man was out…um…watering the trees…when I passed by and was able to redirect me back on course. I’d downloaded the Camino Ninja app but it doesn’t include the variant paths. Still, though I was disappointed about losing hiking time – the timing for sunrise and being able to enjoy various critters in the wild was perfect.
I kept stopping to try to get a good sunrise photo – and when I did, I became aware of sounds I wouldn’t have heard if I was clomping along in the gravel. I startled a small group of deer … small deer by Midwestern standards …and they rushed by. I wouldn’t say it was a thundering of hooves… because little hooves make a more delicate sound. Closest I could relate it to would be running goats.
A hare -brown back and tan tummy – crossed the path about 25 feet in front of me at one point. I was between it and the sunrise. I was wearing my peach-colored fleece due to the chill this morning and I don’t think he saw me. He turned and started hopping towards me on the path. I tried to reach slowly for my phone to get his photo – but that was just enough to let him know I was there and he scampered off.
Heard a kestrel calling in the morning as it hovered in place above a thicket, looking for its breakfast.
A murder of crows flew overhead – loud and bullish – scouring the ground below for easy prey while on their way to the cornfields.
The landscape was perfect for all these animals – and more. Plenty of ground cover. Trees in which to perch. Bushes to hide beneath. Open grazing areas.
Also, there’s something wonderful that happens at dawn. Though I kept looking back to the east to try to see the sunrise – the view in the west is also amazing. This morning I wished I could fold up the colors, put them in my pocket, and take them home with me.
I thought about the other route and was so grateful to have chosen this one. While they both end up in the same place, miles of nature beats miles of highway when I’m walking.
About 8:30 I passed through Villar de Mazarife- which is a traditional end point. Everything was still closed. I get it. The people who live in the towns should keep hours that work for themselves. I don’t expect coffee in every plaza if I’m going through outside business hours. I refilled my water in the fountain and kept walking.
The next 9 km were mostly cornfields, some sunflowers and a few smaller crops. At one point in the morning I passed a marker next to a cornfield that indicated ahead of me was only 300 km to Santiago. That means that I’ve hiked over 500 km since I set out in France almost three weeks ago.
During that stretch of cornfields I needed to again tap into my reserve liter. I’m so grateful to have it. I was about 4 km from the next town / fount.
First Coffee didn’t happen until almost noon. I know – a rarity. I enjoyed a piece of Spanish tortilla with it. Spanish tortilla is nothing like central /South American tortilla. It’s made from three ingredients- potatoes, eggs, and onion. Very tasty and filling. While I was stopped I checked my guide to determine how much farther I should go and deterred stop at Hospital de Orbigo. It’s where the two routes join together and I could see from the map that the Rio Orbigo ran through it. That would meant a valley – and a breeze.
What I didn’t realize was this town has one of my favorite spots. There’s a cafe just before the river that has a lovely garden with chickens wandering around. When I saw where I was – I stopped there for a fresh orange juice and was given a little sandwich to go with it. And, what’s not to love about free range chickens?! Great entertainment.
I made my way across the medieval bridge. A good portion of it now covers dry ground but it’s good to have it there for potential floods.
And I found an albergue off the Main Street, near the church, which is run by the parish. Beautiful, inviting front courtyard.
Simple bunk rooms. Spacious garden out back with a little pool filled with cold water for pilgrims to dunk their feet. The water cycles through a filter and periodically pours out fresh cold water. Perfect. Laundry now on the line & siesta done. Soon I’ll think about finding a light bite to eat. There appeared to be plenty of options.
More later…
If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water
Thank you for painting vivid pictures with your words. So many moments and memories with light, colour and sound to treasure away. The courtyard looks lovely. Well done for coming so far it’s a wonder that this journey still has more in store. Sleep well