El Burgo Ranero to Villarente

Day 18

This morning I was so very glad I’d tagged the additional 7.5 km onto yesterday. I set out before dawn this morning and quickly found the trail. Mile after mile of white gravel path flanked by mile after mile of sycamore trees. The guidebook had ranked the original stage as moderately difficult. I can tell you it wasn’t due to the rough terrain or incline. If I had done the original stage as listed – the difficulty would have been the monotony. It can play with one’s psyche when the scenery is the same for so long. By adding 7.5 km yesterday, the sycamore tree path today was only 13 km. Much better. 

By the time I reached the next town of Reliegos, the first albergue / bar was open for First Coffee. 

The second town I went through would have, technically, been the end of the stage – but it was too early to stop walking. There must be festivals coming up soon because there was a work crew building what they said would be a pilgrim rest area. 

And there were several road crews out, both on the Camino and in towns, sprucing up the pathways. 

I was delighted to see a couple shops open in Mansilla de las Mulas and was able to restock some of my snacks. Fruit, nuts, and crackers. I guess I was so thrilled by this that I forgot to refill my water bottle at the public fountain. I cannot overstate how important fresh water is on the Camino. I typically go through 4-5 liters on my hike and then continue to drink water after I stop. This doesn’t include the coffee con leche, fresh orange juice. or my post-walk coke or can of flavored fizzy water. I have one water bottle with a flip-top and straw clipped to my pack and a backup liter in my pack. Today I stopped at the side of the road to tap into the spare. 

I continued walking to the next town. It’s named for its medieval bridge with 20 arches. Just before the town there’s a beautiful forest and the river brings with it a welcome, cool breeze.  It’s a smallish town and had three accommodation options.  The green dolphin (Delfin Verde) had a nice pool but was also right next to the highway. I kept walking and found San Pelayo, the only true albergue in the place. It’s tucked a few streets off the main road and it’s absolutely delightful. As I was walking up I was a bit concerned because one side has no windows. But apparently that’s the side that gets the sun so not having windows there keeps it cool. 

The young lady who met me at registration to check me in was wearing a Milwaukee Brewers T-shirt. She spoke perfect English and told me she’d gone to Milwaukee as an exchange student and was also able to visit Chicago. She said the experience was the best of her life. I also met Mimi – the albergue cat / diva. 

The place has two lovely gardens. One with a lot of tables near a bar area and the other is more utilitarian. No washing machines here – but a couple sinks and plenty of clothes lines.

If you ever see me walking around an albergue in a tank top and hiking shorts – it’s because everything else is on the line. Yesterday I’d been lazy and didn’t do my laundry – just packed it up to take with. So today I had two day’s worth of laundry to do. Fifteen items of mine are now out on the line, mixed in with other pilgrim’s things.  It’s a bit disconcerting to know that’s my entire walking wardrobe on the line at once. I counted them as I hung them up so I could count them when I take them down. In the meantime – tank top and hiking shorts it is. 

Pilgrim’s dinner here this evening. Might also take a stroll to see if I can find Her Majesty some more cat treats. 

More later.. 

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water