Day 16
Last night I had two options that I knew of for a service. 7:15 Vespers with the nuns of Santa Clara or 7:30 Mass at Santa Maria. I didn’t know which to attend. So I walked into Vespers and was surprised to find myself the only non-nun. It’s a closed order and the sisters were all behind an ornate metal gate reciting the liturgy of the hours in Spanish. My only option for seating was to sit with my back to them. Since my Spanish is spotty, at best, and I wasn’t really following the material – after about 5 minutes I quietly got up and respectfully exited.
Santa Maria was crowded with both townsfolk and pilgrims. Mass started promptly at 7:30 PM and the sisters of Santa Maria entered in their friendly white habits – one of them carrying a guitar. I felt like I was in the right place. One of the lovely things about a Mass is that the order of service is universal, regardless of the local language. I was able to follow along and quietly recite the responses in English without distracting anyone. The passages and homily related to the Camino of the heart. I must figure out the passage for the day, also universal.
Afterwards, the pilgrims were invited to the front for a blessing and a gift of a little paper star to carry with us as a reminder that the sisters were praying for us. It was a sweet and moving gesture.
After Mass I crossed the street to a restaurant for a pilgrim’s menu. I was sitting alone and another pilgrim who I didn’t know was about to be seated at the next table. I asked if she’d like to join me. Her name was Condalea(sp?) and she was from Germany. This is her ninth Camino – first on her own. I was grateful she spoke perfect English and we had a lovely conversation over our 3-course dinner. I went with the lamb/potato soup (for the carbs) for my first course. Fish for my main. And ice cold watermelon for dessert. Wonderful end to the day. I took a photo of the fish because, like the shrimp earlier in the day, it was looking back at me. 😳
Even though my window was open last night – the air was hot and motionless. I was glad when my alarm finally went off and I could prep and get out in the cooler morning air. The open gate in the courtyard was a welcome sight …sometimes cloisters lock guests in until a set hour.
I had been warned in my guidebook to prepare with supplies for a 17.5 km stretch, first thing, with no services. All the stores were closed for Sunday so the best I could do was a couple oranges from a bar.
The exit to the town was over a bridge and the sound of rushing water was refreshing – but not something I could get a photo of in the dark. Sunrise arrived about 7 AM and it was so nice to see clouds to help cut some of the heat.
After about 8 km there was the one food truck for the day. I learned earlier this trip that the food trucks are highly regulated and the permit office only approves one per official stage. This one was situated just past a bridge with a stream of some sort. I was surprised to see cattails in the ditch.
It was a welcome stop for First Coffee and I saw my German friend from last night. The only thing the rest stop couldn’t provide was an outhouse – so we all carried on … knowing that this was a day each of us would probably be running into the bushes as discretely as possible a bit further on. The reality of the Camino.
Part of the trail was lined with trees. This particular patch warmed my heart. Planted by an optimist for the future.
I also smelled, for the first time this trip – eucalyptus. Always a refreshing aroma. The path was lined with Broom – but this time in the season though some of the yellow flowers remained – the beautiful, pungent aroma has long since dissipated …having done the job it needed to do to attract pollinators in the spring.
The bushes and trees eventually dwindled and the heat and open fields returned in full force.
After the 17.5 km stretch I stopped for another coffee. And, a bit further along – a raspberry smoothie.
That’s all the lunch I needed. Refreshing and cold. Just enough to make it the last little section to Terradillos de los Templarios. I knew I’d found the right place when I saw their sign that resembled the chain mail of a knight’s armor – with the little silver squares moving in the breeze.
Paid an extra 2€ for a ‘camas’ rather than a bunk – so I could be a little more comfortable and not have to hit my head on the bunk above in the night. Worth it.
Shower. Laundry done. A little time in the shaded garden. A full two-hour siesta!!! And feeling ready for a pilgrim’s meal by 6:30.
More later…
If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water
The church of Santa Maria looks gorgeous. I do admire the dedication of the closed order but a mum with a guitar is more accessible for the rest of us. Sounded like a special service and the star will be a treasures keepsake. Lamb seems to appear regularly on the menu. You walk past enough of them! The raspberry cooler looked awesome. I am in admiration at your timing and commitment to it as a means to sustain yourself. Having time for a siesta on arrival without compromising the evening is a smart move. Tracking you on Google maps. Blessed journey.
Thanks, A. I’m finding that I’m much more in tune to the benefit of things like smoothies for the temperature and nut isn’t. The appetite is still affected by the heat so I need to make the most of my food choices.
Yes, siesta is a genius concept. Need to figure out how to keep that going!