Burgos to Hontanas

Day 13

Last night’s pilgrim’s Mass was breathtaking. The music filled the space and the spirit was present.  Followed by a pilgrim’s blessing at the front of the sanctuary.  

Today – the Meseta (desert).  But not before exiting Burgos. With 32 km of hiking and the Meseta in front of me – I checked my bag ahead. No apologies – no guilt. 

The walk out at 6 AM was far different than the walk in. Cool, shaded, before dawn, in parts quite picturesque.  And, it was full of grace. Portions of the walk out were not very clearly out. I paused no fewer than five times to take a double-take and get my bearings.  During those times I was directed by:

A street sweeper

A man walking his dog

A lady leaning out of her window at 6:30 AM for a smoke

A college student on a bicycle

And a businessman just getting into his car for work. 

All pleasant, knowledgeable, and happy to help.  The third on the list looked like she was in an Edward Hopper painting. 💕

I hiked for several kilometers with Alex – a professor from Hamburg who teaches Spanish. He’s on a year’s sabbatical.  We chatted for a bit and I found out he speaks six languages. We saw a deer in the field while walking – the first I’ve seen this trip. 

After a coffee break I headed out in my own. I stopped in at a little market for peaches.

It’s stone fruit season here. They get a bit more ripe and delicious each day – and I try to find the when I can. 

At the top of a hill I saw the vast Meseta out in front of me in the valley below. It’s unmistakeable. This time of year it’s dry fields of hay and wheat. Dusty, shade less, and very hot. 

There are three things I recommended to my friends who do this trek tomorrow:

* More water than you think you need – with electrolytes if you have them 

* Sunshade (today I used a brimmed hat and my sarong to cover my arms)

* A great playlist. This is the first day I actually used my songs – there was no chance of getting distracted and lost. Classic U2, Lumineers, Gregorian chant, Bruce Cockburn, and lots of Springsteen, to name a few. There’s something to be said for the silence of the Meseta – but I needed motivation and a beat to keep moving at a reasonable pace. 

I remembered that Hontanas is in a valley. And, if you don’t know that it can be discouraging as it’s never on the horizon. Just prior to the valley there’s a giant cross of Malta (the Knights Templar). I think a similar version was pilfered by the nazis (which is a bit disturbing) but this one was a welcome marker for my day’s destination.

Peta had prebooked a room but couldn’t travel today so she let me take the reservation over. I was so grateful. It’s my first private room of the trip. Comes with real linens on the bed, towels, a private en suite, and a very relaxing hour in the spa pool. 

I booked into the community dinner. Lovely company and the main dish was a gorgeous chicken pialla.  

Got myself reorganized for tomorrow. 34k. I’m planning on heading out early. 

More later…

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, tplease follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water