Day 16
Breakfast was in what appeared to be in a former chapel. If the shape of the ceiling wasn’t a clue…
…the stairs that led to a small pulpit was also a good indication.
I headed out directly after breakfast. It rained last night so the streets were wet and the air was damp and misty. I was literally the only person on the plaza in front of the cathedral this morning when this photo was taken…which I have to imagine is a rarity.
Once out of the city, there weren’t any rest stops or cafes for about 8km. I got the impression in the few towns I was walking through that the owners of the large homes and big yards, with walls, metal gates, guard dogs, and security systems weren’t interested in making a few extra euros selling coffee to pilgrims. Fair enough. Throughout the morning the sound of streams running just off the pathways was almost constant. Sometimes in view. Sometimes hidden by deep fern ground cover.
I caught a break late morning as I spied a cafe off the road and ducked in for a coffee. As I was enjoying coffee out on the covered front porch there was a huge downpour. I watched it from my dry perch under the awning. After a while I dug out my rain poncho (which I’d put in my daypack) for the first time this trip and headed up the hill. It was quite a steep and high hill. I was relieved to finally see an old radio tower off the path – an indication that I was nearing the top as they don’t usually throw those on a low point.
A few towns before my destination was Ponte Maceira with ancient buildings and a beautiful river with waterfalls running through the center of town.
About 2:00 I got to my destination. I’d portered my pack to Albergue San Jose… perhaps just to be about to ask someone if they knew the way to San Jose? At any rate, when I got there there was no pack and no more beds available. So, I doubled back 150 meters to a hotel and took one of the last spots they had open. It’s an apartment. Two bedrooms. Way too much space for one person. It looks as though it was decorated in 1980 for a Fawlty Towers sequel that never happened and then left as a time capsule. The bathroom is oatmeal colored. The kitchen is bare – not a single implement – and the only appliance that seems to work in it is the sink, which is where I did my laundry…
…once it arrived. My pack was deposited at reception at San Martin where they told me to leave it but they forgot to put it in the pickup point mid-morning. I felt so bad for the transit guy – he literally made a special trip back to Santiago to pick it up. So nice of him. I tried to tip him but he wasn’t having it – and I’m guessing the hotel staff won’t make that mistake again. Really an amazing portering service.
There’s a little porch in the flat which I jury-rigged into a drying room for laundry.
The restaurant downstairs is closed from 4-7 so I walked down to the supermarket for some sustenance. My guidebook says I’ll need extra supplies for tomorrow’s walk. Very glad to have food on hand.
Just basics this evening. Breakfast is included with the fee.
Hopefully an early night.
More later…
Wow! What a place to have breakfast. The other way you could tell it was a chapel is the rather severe, heavy looking, uncomfortable chairs – a must in every place of worship! I am amazed at the symmetry of the cathedral. I can imagine two stonemasons stepping back from their scaffolding on either side to find that one had missed another’s nobbly bit. Special to be the only person in the square at that that time. Yes! Rain poncho. always a winner. I love walking in the rain. Not so much when you have to have to stay with every damp thing you have. Music wise, any tracks emerging as repeated favourites? Personally I love the blue foam sofa. It looks both innocent and the kind of thing that would consume you down the back if sat on. Was the breakfast 1980’s style as well?
Been checking your blog, Marilyn – so amazing!!! Absolutely incredible. Can’t wait to hear more from you when you are back.