Day 10
Meet Paola. She’s my hero.
She carried me from the valley (below the cloud cover) to O’ Cebreiro at the top of the mountain.
Possibly the best two hours of my trail. My friend Michael also road. His horse was named Luna. I haven’t ridden a horse in years but it’s a bit like riding a bike (learning-wise) and I felt quite comfortable. I brought carrots and a couple apples to introduce myself to the horses and to thank them when we were done.
Our guide was Victor of Al Paso. He used to own seven horses but, with Covid and the subsequent lack of pilgrims, he had to sell off three to pay expenses and support the others. They ended up in Molinaseca and Victor and I agree that that’s a good life for a horse. Big houses and barns, beautiful pastures, plenty of shade, and a peaceful river. Victor walked the mountain alongside us, occasionally pulled by Luna and, once the horses were rested, he would ride Luna back down. He said Paola would follow Luna about 15 – 20 meters behind without a rope attached. That’s a good horse.
We sat in a cafe chatting with Victor and having coffee for a while. I was a bit numb when I first got off the horse but after a while all the feeling returned to my legs and other parts. I then said thank you to Victor, goodbye for now to Michael, grabbed my pack, and headed down the road.
At some point this morning we entered into the province of Galicia. It’s dairy country and also close to the sea. Cattle in the hills wore bells and it was easy to hear them even across the huge valley.
I learned in a rest stop that Galicia is back to Phase 2 restrictions due to variant strains. Throughout the walk thus far, masks have been required in all indoor restaurants. Makes sense. We’re breathing near other people’s food. The rest stop sign said that, due to restrictions, there could be no eating indoors. That’s okay – a table outdoors in the shade on a gorgeous day is actually preferable.
My book says Fonfria is 11.4 km beyond O’ Cabreiro. Along the way I passed a statue at Alto San Roque.
I’d thought before that it marked the highest point in the Camino but then I walked up-up several hundred meters beyond the sign that marks 1270 meters altitude… so, I don’t think that assumption is accurate.
The first half of my walking portion today was through cool shaded woods which were full of ferns and, to my surprise, lots of holly.
The second half of the trail was mostly in sun. I was so relieved to come around the final turn and see the grass roof of the dining hall where we will have a pilgrims’ meal this evening.
This place also features a pilgrim luxury: washers and dryers! I remembered that from last time so I’m doing two days worth of laundry.
The albergue is spacious and sparsely populated. I noticed on the way back from the laundry room that everyone has naturally spaced ourselves two beds apart to keep a distance and some sense of privacy.
The albergue bed this evening was €10 and the evening meal €12. I put both on my card when I checked in as I’d love to not have to stop to convert dollars to euros if I don’t have to.
I learned at dinner that though capacity for albergues in León is set at 50% – in Galicia it’s 30%. This means that finding an albergue bed in this last section might be more difficult. I want to stay at A Pedra in the next place I stop. They support a school in Africa. The hotelier here graciously called them for me. They’re at their capacity already for tomorrow but had a single room available. Glad to have my name in.
Great day. Thanks again, Paola!
More later…
What a great day! Well done Paola (and Victor). I am glad that you were able to give him some work. Glad you reached the highest point – it should be all downhill from there!