Manero to Ayegui

Day 5

I had two priorities when I left the hostel before six this morning (other than getting to the next destination). Church and another great cup of coffee. I found the latter at a little diner 8k away. Along the way I passed vineyards, olive orchards, and wheat fields interspersed with poppies. One field tucked discretely between two olive orchards was more poppy than wheat. Made me wonder if wheat was the secondary harvest. Opioids have to come from somewhere.

Passed through the gorgeous quaint medieval town of Cirauqui with coats of arms above every home door in the oldest part of town.

This town was the worst marked thus far as far as trail signs – and I don’t blame them one bit. If I lived in such a beautiful, historic place I’d lobby against people spray painting yellow marker arrows in it for the sake of someone else’s’ convenience. I stopped a couple different people who were out and they didn’t mind at all helping me find my way through town.

Speaking of spray painting, every now and then a graffiti artist’s work stands out as exceptional. This mural was under an overpass along the way.

I arrived in Estella just after noon and had almost given up on finding a place to check in for church and thought I’d be attending the Church of the Open Road After a quick pit stop and another bottle of water I heard church bells. I followed the sound to San Pedro and the sight that greeted me was unbelievable. The entire front yard in front of the church was covered in a rose petal mosaic of the Eucharist and dove symbolizing the Holy Spirit. The words sad “Viva, Jesus, Sacramentado”. Absolutely stunning.

I went inside the church to pay my respects and pray. When I was done the bells started again. I went out to the top of the church steps to see what was going on and a huge procession led by about 40 young boys and girls decked to the nines – coming in to receive their first communion.

I stayed for the part of the service that was outdoors but did not follow them back in. Such a lovely occasion should not be marred by a stinking, uninvited pilgrim at the back of the church.

One casualty of the day. When I stopped to take photos of the procession I put my water bottle down and then forgot it when I walked away. When I went back to get it it was gone. Probably tossed out immediately. It had been knocked over and, in spite of copious duck tape, had a slow leak. Fortunately there was a hiking shop open across from the church so I went in and got another one before heading to the next town.

I checked into San Cipriano in Ayegui. It’s a municipal hostel – basically like a Y, in American, but really nice. While I was checking in I noticed a sign for spa use for just a few euro more. I signed up immediately. After settling my stuff into the women’s dorm room I headed over to the spa a few blocks away. I was just hoping for a place to soak my feet. Much to my surprise, just as I arrived everyone left for siesta. I had all the pools, steam room, and locker room completely to myself.

Nice touch, God! Happy Sunday! :). I walked out of there completely refreshed.

Now back at the hostel and settling in for the evening after a nice pilgrims’ dinner. Laundry also done – including being able to use an actual working dryer!

Great day.

More later…