This post will need to wait until tomorrow. I made it to Burgos just fine and had a very full day. But one of the highlights has to do with something that is happening tomorrow- so I want to save the whole post until then. Plus, generally a lot to report.
Reporting back, the next day…
Gorgeous walk out of Atapuerca yesterday with new folks I met from the States and Uk. We were at IMpulso Albergue and enjoyed a relaxing atmosphere, wonderful hospitality, and beds – not bunks – in our rooms. Raphael, the young host, spoke excellent English in a beautiful Spanish accent.
The hostess did a special informational session before the communal dinner to instruct us how to enter Burgos without going through the industrial zone. Well worth paying attention. In the morning it all paid off and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll into Burgos along the river, through beautiful natural parks.
Prior to that point, there was a portion up a rocky mountain, passing by flocks of sheep, and flanked on the left by a military training zone, partitioned off by barbed wire. I knew it was coming up at some point. So glad to have cleared it this trip as I won’t have to tackle it if / when I return to finish this Camino.
On the downhill portion we passed by four adorable kids selling homemade bracelets for €1 / €2 each. I gladly stopped to purchase one. When my friend Stuart passed through there later in the day he said they weren’t there. I’m hoping they depleted their stock and went home to make more and have a siesta before the sun got too hot.
I chatted at length with a several of my new acquaintances and we shared stories, as one does. At one point on the river path we stopped for this photo and then went out separate ways as we were staying at different places.
I checked into Hotel Cordon – in the heart of the old town. The room is small but very comfortable for one. And it features a private bathroom with an actual bath. I was running the bath water before I even unpacked. After a leisurely bath I gathered all my nasty trail gear and headed for a laundromat. Part of the luxury of the next couple days is strolling town in clean clothes. More of a luxury than I would have appreciated at home.
Clothes done, I caught up on messages and offered to meet anyone in my group of friends for a meal or coffee – after I first did something at the cathedral. Had a couple responses for tentative plans and headed out to take care of a commitment.
About ten years ago I met a lovely lady named Mary Lou who, over the years, helped me take out some emotional garbage in my life and provided mentorship in a time I need it desperately. Mary Lou passed away earlier this year and her celebration of life ceremony was taking place in Illinois on Saturday, May 23rd. I was missing it. I’d planned my trip over eight months ago and it would have been difficult to change. As much as Mary Lou loved life and loved the fact that I’d go out on adventures, I’m sure she would understand and approve. However, I wanted to honor her memory in some way. I went to the church and, after much searching, found a candle to light in her memory. It seemed to me to be too small a gesture. Mary Lou helped so many people – hundreds, if not thousands – during her lifetime.
As I was walking out I noticed a tiny, young nun struggling to carry two large wooden boxes. I asked her if I could help. We carried the boxes across the entire cathedral – during which time I learned her name was Sister Lilium (Latin for Lily) and that she was from Texas. She was grateful for the help and agreed to a photo.
I was walking down the steps to meet my friends and a little voice said ‘Go back and ask for a Mass.’ So, I did, also as one does. At the back of the chapel the door to the vestry was open. Inside was Sister Lilium, talking with someone. She waved me in and I asked about dedicating a Mass for someone deceased. She said ‘Of course!’ I was thinking she’d write it down for some far-off date. Instead, she looked at the calendar behind her. “For tomorrow we have two options open.” I selected 10:30. I walked out of the church choking back happy, grateful tears.
I sent a quick note to a group of friends that knew Mary Lou to let them know. One wrote back that he got pinged with that message during Mary Lou’s memorial just as they were playing Ave Maria in her honor. He didn’t say – but if that had been me, I would have burst into tears in earnest. God’s timing is pretty amazing.
Met a few of the ladies I’d walked with, for tapas, a fizzy water, and more chatting. Wandered with them for a bit to a grocery store and a quick stop in an Asian shop. Then we parted ways. I’m very much hoping to stay in touch.
Afterwards Stuart and I met for one last check-in before parting ways. We found a cafe with comfortable chairs in excellent proximity to the promenade and also with horrendous service – the combination of which made for a long but pleasant evening. People-watching on the Saturday evening plaza while a festival “Noche blanco” was taking place in town was amazing. Tiny tots, babies in buggies, little kids on push-scooters, young couples, older couples, folks on their phones, dogs of various sizes and descriptions (all very chill), folks in wheelchairs, groups of dolled-up grannies out on the town – fabulous. All strolling back and forth, in no particular hurry. The weather was mild, with a pleasant breeze. Just before 10 pm the streetlights came on. A bit later folks just started to think about having dinner. Prior to that the folks around us were only leisurely having beverages – no food. We were the exception. Had a lovely conversation and then headed to our respective hotels – laughing when we realized we’d just become the strollers we’d been watching. Said goodbye – until next time – and shall endeavor to stay in touch. New friendships are, for me, the heart of the Camino. 💕🥾🌅
This morning I had a coffee on the plaza and watched a much more subdued crowd. Mostly dogs walking their people. This guy was waiting for his owner to finish her coffee.
At 10 I headed over to the cathedral. Greeted Sister Lilium and sat quietly waiting for the service. Today is Pentecost. While I didn’t understand every word of the homily (in Spanish), I knew he was saying that God is not just in the church. He’s in our lives and lives through us in the world. He spoke of the fire of God changing our lives. Mary Lou would have loved it.
At the point in the service when he turned during prayers and picked a little piece of paper off the podium – I braced myself. As he read Mary Lou’s full name the actual tears came.
She is greatly loved and missed.
Mary Lou was 94.
More later…
I am walking for Charity:Water. You’re welcome to join me.
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water-2026
