Susie and I were the first ones in the hotel breakfast room when they opened at 7:30 and out the door to hike not long after. The city was waking up as we found our way to the waterfront. We followed an app map out of town and then into the foothills around the city, following the arrows.
Going through one small town we had to stop for this sweet entrepreneur who was selling sodas and crafts. I asked him for a photo of the artist with my purchase.
We climbed several large hills overlooking Vigo. The view from the top of the hill was amazing.
At the first rest stop, which was actually in someone’s flat, we found another young artist selling custom wax stamps for credentials and beverages for a donation. Great way to pay the rent and the rest stop timing was appreciated. Here he is prepping a wax stamp for my book:
At that stop we also met Alii, from Toronto, who is doing the Camino as a two week adventure in a multi-week, multi-country European tour before moving to Australia as a travel nurse. Delightful to meet her and I hope we can all stay in touch.
There’s a phenomenon on the Camino Frances when one reaches Sarria. Because 100 km is the minimum pilgrimage in order to get a compostela certificate- a lot of people start there. Apparently Vigo is that point on the Portuguese Camino as well. We saw a lot of fresh faces, students with white gym shoes, and brand new credentials being brought out at every opportunity for stamps. We also heard a lot of group chatter. That’s okay – they might only have enough time to travel 100 km.
We took a short detour to visit a big church but it was closed. On the way back from that detour we happened across a coffee shop just in time for lunch. Stopping there also meant we were able to avoid the big lunch crowd in the next town.
Just before and after Redondella we witnessed two disturbing scenes involving animals. Before, there were two giant bull mastiffs off lead, darting out into local traffic. The owner was running after them. Local onlookers stepped in to help catch them. If you’ve ever seen a bull mastiff, you know that takes some nerve. We couldn’t tell how they got off lead nor what started the commotion – but that scenario ended well and several neighbors were trying to calm down the young lady who had lost the dogs. Just after Redondella, we saw six horses in a dry field – no visible food nor water. One in particular, a nursing mare, was skin and bones. A small sign on the fence said in English (only) to not to feed the horses. Sure, don’t throw ham sandwiches to them – but, I couldn’t walk by in good conscience. I dropped an apple as close as I could to her. Susie and I will both have nightmares about that scene. Local authorities really need to step in.
Redondella is a stage end-point in my guide book, but accommodations just weren’t available. So we had pre-booked beds in an alburgue in Arcade, several miles beyond. The path we were following took the scenic route up a mountain and through the woods.
It was clearly marked and a well-tended path but it didn’t match any of the paths in Google nor on Susie’s app. We were passed by several pilgrims on mountain bikes and one hiking, using the same trail. So, we had to take it on faith that we were still on the right track. After quite a while it finally spit us out into Arcade, just 5 minutes away from our alburge. We’re in a co-ed dorm with bunks. Dinner and breakfast are included. And, even better – they’re on Pilgrim time, not Spanish time. 6-8 for both! We want to have an early night and be out the door early.
We checked in, changed, and then hit the pool. It was incredibly refreshing. Started our laundry and then had a wonderful dinner of soup, bread, and pasta. While we were waiting for dinner, a couple pilgrims came in, exhausted, and were turned away as the alburge was fully booked. Those poor people must have been searching for accommodations without any luck in Redondella, climbed the mountain, only to be turned away here. The Portuguese Camino is not like Camino Frances in that regard. Housing here during the peak month of August is stressful. If I were ever to hike from Porto again – I wouldn’t travel in the busy season. And I wouldn’t recommend that others try it either.
Positive news is that since we tagged a few extra miles onto today, tomorrow’s hike to our room in Pontevedra will be a mere 12 km. We’re hoping to get in early enough to explore the city.
More later….
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