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Santiago to Negreira

Day 31

I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you about last night’s Mass. I got to the cathedral by 7 and it was already packed. I couldn’t find a place to sit at first. I wandered around a bit then noticed the cement base on a pillar and sat there. I think I probably had one of the best seats in the house. I could see the cantor in the raised pulpit, the nine priests, and the scripture readers. This photo was from before the service because during the service, my phone was shut off and put away. 

View from my seat

The service was in Spanish but, as I’ve mentioned, since it’s universal – it’s not difficult to follow along. They made special mention in the prayers of all the home countries from which pilgrims had registered in the Compostela office that day. Once Mass was concluded – these guys in burgundy robes showed up. Eight of them.

I couldn’t believe it!  They did the incense!  It’s accompanied by a beautiful hymn. They don’t do it all the time. I got the whole thing on video but these are a couple screen shots. 

I was sobbing by the time they finished. What an amazing treat!

This morning I awoke and heard church bells. Not sure if they rang the time all night – I was sleeping soundly. On my way out of town by 7 AM. 

7 AM – leaving Santiago

Somehow / somewhere not far beyond the city limits I strayed off the path. By the time I checked the app I was about a km off track. Fortunately a guy was just coming out of his tent and was able to give me good directions back to the trail. I gave him treats for his dog as a thank you. 

By my oh my – what a gorgeous corner of the globe to be lost!  There were lots of streams and waterfalls and gorgeous little villages. 

Back on track – Santiago in the distance to the East now!

I stopped at the first place open for First Coffee – at 10:30!  Made me really appreciate it. 

The map showed a 2 km uphilll climb and they weren’t kidding. Nonstop uphill is really draining. I was so relieved to see the radio tower as it indicated the top of the hill. 

Passed through a gorgeous town on the river but didn’t see a place to stop at a cafe. 

The next place I noticed a cafe sign was called ‘Anjana’ – or, ‘Angel’. I stopped in for a beverage but also because I wanted the angel stamp in my pilgrim’s passport. I asked another traveler what town it was and was shocked when he said Negreira – that’s the town I was aiming for. The hostess said a bed was available. I’m so glad I stopped here!  As I write I’m under a cabana in the backyard garden on a lounge sofa, my feet are propped up, and the hostess ran out a light blanket in case I wanted a siesta. There’s even a wading pool for feet. 

I might wander further into town later to go to the grocery store. Perhaps a fruit and cheese dinner in the garden?

More later…

If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please follow this link. Thank you!

https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water

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