Day 11
This is being posted a day late due to technical difficulties. Thank you for your patience.
Dinner last night was a lovely community affair. Seven of us eventually at the table when it was finally full. I’d met Peter (Peta) before and also Claudio – who began walking from Lourdes. Lovely conversation as we each shared our day and our plans. I selected the pasta salad, bake fish, and a lemon custard for dessert. Everything was done to perfection.
Dinner ended before 9 and I headed straight to my bunk and sleep. I was glad I had at about 3:30 AM when I was awoken by a rolling baritone chorus of snoring. 20 beds in the room and about half of the occupants snoring. It was no match for my earplugs. Eventually got up, readied myself, and headed out by 5.
Beautiful walk. Was so grateful the Way was clearly marked as I was able to find the path in the moonless morning.
I stopped in Espinosa for great coffee and a fabulous roasted open-faced sandwich. When I first walked in, a local customer’s shepherd-mix pup was blocking the cord curtain that covered the doorway. I said ‘hola’ and the dog-owner moved the pup aside. I think he was surprised when I wasn’t annoyed but got treats out of my pouch for his dog and scratched between its ears. New friend.
I took advantage of WiFi access to check in on work emails and book a lunch business reservation for September. I would have done it prior to leaving – but the place had a 28-day window on availability. That completed, I headed off to the next town.
The terrain today was up and down hills through forests and open fields. Appreciated the knee brace for the downhills.
About 8:30 Peta overtook me on the hill. We walked together off and on with another pilgrim from Australia for the rest of the way. We had 12 km to cover between towns / services but fortunately we knew this in advance and had prepared with extra water. Great conversations & stunning forest views.
I noticed the trail has turned from white fine gravel to a mixture of various colors clay dust and purple stones. At this altitude the heather, in a variety of purple hues, grows under the scented pines.
Peta had scheduled to stop in San Juan de Ortega and when we arrived it seemed like a good place to take a break. Especially since fruit smoothies were on offer and there was shade on the patio.
After a refreshing break, I headed on to Ages.
Wasn’t sure which albergue option I was going to pursue – but the first one, Alburge Fagus, looked promising. There were a dozen older local ladies sitting out on the front patio in the shade. They were enjoying beverages and admiring a young mom’s new baby. When I went inside the place, Bruce Springsteen ‘Born in the USA’ was in the local Spanish radio station. The front dining room was clean and appeared to be newly renovated. The host said a bed was available.
After I got my stuff a bit organized I went looking for the shower-room. Typically there’s a row of enclosed shower cubicles in one main room. Couldn’t find it. Eventually went back downstairs to ask where it was. The host looked at me like I was an idiot. ‘In your room.’ I was stunned by that answer. It hadn’t occurred to me that they’d designed the place with an en suite in each bedroom!
There isn’t much to this town. Lots of little older building, a few albergues with cafes, and a small park. Thought this mural honoring the storks was well done.
Dinner tonight will be at the place I’m staying. There’s a pilgrim’s menu on offer.
More later…
If you’d like more information about my walk for charity:water, please following this link. Thank you!
https://www.charitywater.org/marilyn-peterson/marilyn-s-camino-for-water