Day 17
Wow – what a day! Walked almost nonstop from before 8 until 4. A quick break for lunch (tomato on toast) and later for a cup of coffee. My step counter says it was over 50,000 steps. I think that’s a personal best.
Today in two words: timeless & damp.
The day started with a fine mist so I didn’t think much of it and it built in intensity until it was, as Forest Gump would say in a slow, Southern accent, “a sideways rain.” By then I was already soaked thru so it would have been pointless to put on a rain poncho. It would just have created a mobile steam room. I’d pinned a pair of socks to my daypack hoping they would finish drying on my walk. It just wasn’t going to happen.
On the way out of Negreira I walked past this amazing sculpture. I didn’t see a sign but it appears to be possibly a tribute to migrant workers. If it’s not and you know the story, please let me know. Regardless, really nicely done.
Because of the clouds and rain, the absence of direct sun blurred the time of day. 9 AM looks like 3 PM when the temperature is constant and you can’t tell where the sun is.
The scenery was consistently wet, green, and fragrant. Lots of smells hit me today. The damp fern and moss musky smell, the combo of pine and eucalyptus in the forests, and the sweetest smell – this might sound odd – was the smell of hay combined with the cows who only eat sweet hay, grass, and clover.
There were no townspeople out for leisurely walks today to tell me when I was getting close to a town. But, it occurred to me that in these parts I can tell I’m getting close to civilization when I smell cows. Farmers don’t house them too far from their own homes as they need to feed, check, and milk them regularly. Mid morning I passed this small herd of longhorn cattle. They’re truly regal.
I also saw the biggest slug I think I’ve ever seen in my life. Clearly he’s got plenty to eat. After taking this picture I flicked him off the path into the ferns. If a bike hit him it would have been just gross.
About 2:30 I climbed to the top of a giant hill and, to my surprise, got my first view of the ocean. This was taken by a fellow pilgrim. I returned the favor.
Not far after this shot, on the way down the other side of the hill, I heard a seagull for the first time this walk.
Made it to my destination just after 4. I’d sent my pack ahead to an albergue. I remembered to take a picture of the tag this time. But this time the albergue was closed. A neighbor saw me and knew where the pack had been dropped. The local networks here are amazing.
Got a bed in an albergue off of the main path, got cleaned up, and then since my socks on my daypack never dried I decided to splurge and wash today’s laundry, my jacket and sarong, and ALL my socks. Hand washing is just sub-par (at least the way I do it) and since they have a dryer as well – it’s worth the extra few euros to start tomorrow with clean, dry socks.
Once the dryer finishes I think I’ll look for dinner somewhere nearby. Then sleep!
More later…