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Vega del Valcarce to Fonfria

Day 26

Today was mostly an uphill climb. 28k – about 800 meters up. We’re grateful for the shade through the woods. The views from the summit were breathtaking.

We climbed to one of the highest points in the Camino. And at O Cebreiro we read about a Eucharist miracle that occurred in this little chapel. I don’t have a link to the story, but it’s worth looking up. It was a beautiful, holy place.

My friends are faster than I am so it’s better that I set out earlier in the stages and they can pass me up with little trouble. They’re good about taking a break at the next town and not totally leaving me in the dust without a clue. I set out early after lunch at O Cebreiro and in the first town came across a lovely stone church. As it’s Sunday the doors to the little chapel were open so I took some time to stop in. An appreciated holy moment.

At some point after that stage we passed into the province of Galicia. Known for its cattle, dairy, & fresh produce- sounds like my kind of place.

I’m thinking I might be getting a bit of a reputation with my friends. I carry a small packet of chicken-flavored cat treats with me for the many cats we encounter. I did this around our town when I was pushing my kids in strollers. But these treats also good for making friends with dogs and luring puppies out into the open and, believe it or not, chickens love them. I also carry carrots and apples for the horses and throw my breadcrumbs to the birds from the cafes. It’s not that we don’t have animals where I live- they’re just not roaming so freely – or maybe it’s just that I don’t have all day to encounter them in their natural environment at home. Anyway – beats reputations of other sorts.

After a long hot afternoon we arrived at our destination.   My friend Joanna and I share a private room again and I felt actual air conditioning for the first time in a month.  Quick end-of-day housekeeping arrangements before a communal dinner in a straw-roofed building down the street.

 

…Followed by the World Cup. Viva Columbia!

Definitely in the middle of farm country. As I write a farm dog is warding off competitors or nighttime predators and a cow across the street is readjusting itself for a comfortable night in the barn. ….A rooster crowing at dawn is certainly imminent. Fearlessly, we’ve still agreed to sleep with the windows open.

More later….

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