Day 21
Set out before 7 today and it was already hot enough that I didn’t need my jacket for the path to the town of Hospital de Orbigo. The gothic bridge in this town is the sight of a legendary jousting match. A knight had been rejected by his love and locked his neck in an iron collar and swore he would not take it off until he had defeated 300 Knights in jousting. After doing so he made a pilgrimage to Santiago and left a bejeweled bracelet in the cathedral (it’s still there). The bridge is known as “the Honorable Pass”. Nowadays folks would just change their Facebook status
On the way to this historic spot I stopped in at Bar El Puente for a coffee and tortilla for breakfast. On my way out to the back garden I was greeted by half a dozen baby ducklings, half a dozen young Polish chickens, and a bunch of shy partridges. My son will recognize these little chickens as the sort that will grow up to sport truly ‘righteous fros’. 🙂
I noticed in this beautiful town that many of the fabulous wooden doors have been restored. The last one pictured still has the original key holes for what must be massive skeleton keys.
Before leaving this town I saw a senor coming out of his home about to go off on a bike ride. He could see I was a pilgrim and, bless his heart, through pantomime and a few words that I recognized, made it clear that the path ahead divided and I’d have a choice. He made it very clear, by stamping his right foot that I was to head to the right. I thanked him and we parted ways. When I got to that corner the straight ahead way was marked ‘by highway’ and the path to the right was marked ‘by shrubs and mountains’. I took the well intentioned advice and am so glad I did. The mountains were basically foothills and the foliage was breathtaking. Pine forests, wildflowers, fields of corn, and I was treated to watching a flock of sheep following their shepherd across the road in front of me.
I told the shepherd as he passed that his sheep were beautiful. He seemed pleased. I thought there were only two dogs helping him out but flanking the rear line were three large dogs – the size and color of the sheep. They were very calm but one of them gave me a look as he passed by that clearly said ‘My sheep – don’t even think about it’. After they passed by I saw what the attraction to the other side of the road was.
Still water.
This senor was in another little town, slowly taking a stroll. I couldn’t resist asking for a photo. I think it made both our days. 🙂
Wonderful walk. I’m in an albergue that doesn’t have a meal service so I’ll head back to the town square to look for other pilgrims. This is the view just down the street from where I’m staying
Week 3 totals, according to my phone…
Floors Climbed: 76
Steps: 269,383
Miles: 107.9
More later…