Day 4
Turns out what I was told was 30 minutes was actually another 5 k yesterday. With that in mind I endeavored to keep that buffer going to avoid the busier locations the guidebook lists as stage end points.
The ladies in my dorm all woke up at just past 6 and headed out early. We were moving at own paces so I was traveling by myself for the first 6k to my first stop in Zariquiegui for breakfast of cafe con leche, croissant, y huevos (egg).
Dawn along the way was stunning over the wheat fields dotted copiously with poppies – medieval farm houses looking on from the hilltops. I was literally wondering if the scene could get anymore picturesque when I looked over my right shoulder to see three hot air balloons lifting up over the morning horizon. The air was relatively still so they never got close enough for a great photo but just the thought of it really capped it all off.
After breakfast I headed up the hill to Alto de Perdon – the ridge that is home to a series of 40 windmills.
It also is the home to a metal sculpture scene of pilgrims in days gone by…and one newbie. I’ve joked with my fellow pilgrims about how absolutely nothing about modern day hiking is fashionable. Clunky shoes, thick wool socks, utilitarian bottoms, quick-dry polyester shirts, and floppy canvas hats. But, it gets the job done and is comfortable.
Upon entering Puenta la Reina I noticed one of the church steeples is graced with multiple stork nests. The older part of the town has inviting narrow, shaded streets and wonderful medieval architecture. Some of the walls and bridges date back to the Romans. I geared myself up for the last 5 k to Manero and noticed the Romans conveniently built in a cubby shelf on the bridge arch in which to rest sunglasses while prepping the water bottle…
Speaking of which, my daughter would be proud of me – I’ve already increased my water intake to about 6 liters a day. I say this because, among other things, my daughter is certified as a Wilderness First Responder and has schooled me on the dangers of dehydration. It was at her recommendation that I packed electrolytes for my water to use when I’m faint. These saved me my first day out when I was jet lagged and suffering from water contamination from airplane pipes. It was also at her suggestion that I’m carrying a can of mace in my right front pack pocket. Just in case.
I arrived in Manero just about 4 and checked into one of the two hostels in town. Felt like I was in the right place when REM was playing in the lobby.
Pilgrim dinner was very basic – pasta and chicken. My plan is to head out early again and get breakfast on the road.
More later…